Restaurant Review - Leff-T’s Steakhouse

150 S State Route 69
Dewey, AZ 86327

I’ve eaten at Leff-T’s twice – limited experience but I think the place deserves a mention.  I stopped there for dinner a few months back and mentioned it in that road trip report.  On that particular occasion I had a steak… here’s what I had to say about that experience. 

I ordered a rib-eye steak, soup and a salad. The soup was a delicious beef-vegetable, the salad was assorted mixed greens and vegetables with a honey mustard dressing. The steak was thin (their smaller rib-eye). I am a steak cooker of some skill and I know how difficult it is to get a thin steak cooked to order. Leff-T's got it right. The dinner bread was a deep brown-bread soft roll served with both butter and apple butter. The service was excellent and I can't think of a single thing they could have done better. Leff-T's will become one of my favorite "out-of-town" restaurants, I am certain.

I was in Prescott today working and needed lunch before I headed for home.  Remembering the earlier good experience I stopped in at Leff-T’s today. I sat in the bar at one of those high tables, as the dining room was pretty busy. The server (Jessica) gave me great service, especially when she had quite a few tables and the bar to keep track of.

I ordered a French Dip, the house chicken and wild rice soup, a salad with prickly pear vinaigrette and cherry pie for dessert. 

The sandwich was made with smoked prime rib and covered with a certain amount of melted Jack cheese.  Looking at its size I thought I would take half of it home – but didn’t.  I ate it all.  You know how THAT goes; I am SUCH a pig.

The salad was a bit different than normal restaurant fare – the greens and vegetables were topped with julienned jicama which gave it a cool, crispy texture, and the dressing (both tart and sweet) complemented everything nicely.  It was of a decent size, but I still could have eaten more of it!

The soup was thick and had beaucoups flavor.  The rice in it added just enough texture and flavor to make it even more interesting and I didn’t leave a drop of it behind.  Just like last time – I had the beef vegetable before and it was great also. 

For dessert today I had cherry pie a la mode.  It was the only thing I had that wasn’t “the best.”  The pastry was a bit soggy and so light that it almost melted – and the cherries were too tart for my taste.  For my taste.  It was clearly made on premises (good).  I ate it all – and I think some folks might rave about it.  I think if the cherries had just a touch more sugar in them, I wouldn't have anything to say about it.

When it comes to pie, I know I am hard to impress – since I make my own.  So that said, I prefer a cherry pie to be more like the prickly pear vinaigrette they put on my salad – a bit tart and a bit sweet. 

Pie crust, just in case anyone is listening, should be crusty, not mushy – and it should be flaky.  This pastry was more like you find on some cobblers. I am sure this is going to come across like a complaint – it isn’t – not at ALL.  I ate it ALL. It’s just not how I would have done it…  me bein’ an expert and all… 

For comparison, this pie was about 6 notches on the great-pie-scale higher than those over-rated pies everybody thinks are so good at Rock Springs.  The last few pieces I've had of those I didn't even finish.  So this critique is relative, OK?

Overall experience – like last time, A+.  This place has been uniformly good on food and service; it’s unpretentious and friendly and I think it has quite a local following – lots of customers acted and talked like they were regulars (always a good sign).  The preparation seems to be executed by someone who not only has some great kitchen skills, but a bit of imagination at the same time.  The word excellent comes to mind, but the chef here is probably not going to tell you he's from Paris, unless it is Paris, Texas.

In my experience this is one of the very best restaurants in Arizona, I really like it.  So if you find yourself on SR69 a little northwest of the junction of SR169, about ¾ of a mile or so, pay a visit.  It doesn’t look like much – it is in a strip center on the south side of the highway – but this little gem is worth a special trip.  Like I said, unpretentious - and good. Try the cherry pie – and feel free to write and tell me I’m full of it.  (Next time I shall try their version of bread pudding, with a “Kahlua”-laced sauce.)  

I cannot believe I passed this place by for years and years!  I won’t continue to make that mistake.

How it came to be: the Declaration of Independence

The Declaration of Independence may prove to be one of the most significant documents ever written by men.

The following is taken directly from the National Archives website and relates the history of the writing of the Declaration of Independence and the history of the document itself since its publication in 1776.  I've copied the first paragraph directly from their web pages and included a link if you'd like to read the remainder of their 9,000 words.

The Declaration of Independence:  A History

Nations come into being in many ways. Military rebellion, civil strife, acts of heroism, acts of treachery, a thousand greater and lesser clashes between defenders of the old order and supporters of the new--all these occurrences and more have marked the emergences of new nations, large and small. The birth of our own nation included them all. That birth was unique, not only in the immensity of its later impact on the course of world history and the growth of democracy, but also because so many of the threads in our national history run back through time to come together in one place, in one time, and in one document: the Declaration of Independence... 

Link to the National Archives' article.

Happy birthday to the United States of America on its 235th anniversary. May we always remember the founders of our nation and the brave men and women who struggled that it might live and prosper. The fight is not over; while they now rest, the burden of their cause resides with us. In my lifetime, I'd like to see "the dream" become reality for everyone.

Uncle Bob’s New World's Best Apple Pie

My pie looks like this...

I'm not modest about my apple pie. I’ve been making them for quite a few years – and I have used several recipes over time.  For a long time I was making them using only Granny Smith apples, but a couple years ago I started experimenting a little.  The lemon has always been a personal touch for me – my sister and I have been “competing” for years on who makes the best apple pie – she doesn’t add lemon to hers.  I think the fresh lemon zest adds a brightness to the taste you don’t get otherwise.  I have to say, I don’t think either one of us has been a loser in the argument.  But don’t tell HER. 

Here’s my latest recipe for some of the best apple pie I’ve ever tasted! 

I use…

• 2 lg Granny Smiths
• 2 lg McIntosh
• 1 lg Golden Delicious
• ¼ c brown sugar
• 1 c sugar
• ¼ c flour, more or less
• 1½ tsp cinnamon
• ¼ tsp nutmeg
• ⅛ to ¼ tsp very-fine minced lemon zest
• 3 TB butter, cut into small pieces
• 9 inch pie pastry, for a double crust

I sometimes use the Never-fail pie pastry recipe.  It's almost fool-proof. Other times, just your simple, basic Betty Crocker pie pastry recipe.

Make the pie...

Peel and slice the apples – place in a large bowl. Mix ¼ cup brown sugar, 1 cup sugar, ¼ cup flour (more or less), 1½ tsp cinnamon, ¼ tsp nutmeg, a small amount of very fine lemon zest (1/8 to 1/4 tsp is plenty).  Whisk thoroughly to blend, then toss the sugar and spice mixture into the apples so that all are evenly coated.

Arrange the apple mixture in the prepared pie plate and pastry, cut the 3 TB butter in pieces on top of the apples, then arrange the top pastry over everything and seal edges (don’t be careless about sealing the edges, or you'll end up with lots of sugary liquid scorching all over your oven). 

This will be a tall pie – make certain you make the top crust large enough to cover the filling. Make several slits in the top for the steam to vent.  Brush the top crust with an egg or milk wash, then sprinkle it with sugar. Or whatever.

I’ve made the mistake a few times in making the top crust too thick.  Veteran pie makers will be familiar with this and will know how to avoid this error – the result is that the top crust bakes stiffly “in place” and the apples underneath sink away as they cook – leaving air above the filling in the finished pie – like a big cave.  Boo!  Hiss! 

For anyone who is new to pie-making, the cure is to make certain you roll the crust fairly thin so it conforms to the top of the filling as it bakes, and before it becomes a roof!

Bake the pie on an old cookie sheet in a preheated oven at 375 for 65 minutes, or until done.  Shield the edges of the pastry with thin strips of aluminum foil or a pastry edge-shield if needed to prevent over-browning.

Remove to wire rack to cool.  

A Branding at the Haggedorn Place

I got up at 3:00 AM.  Probably would have been better if I hadn’t slept at all, but it was a Friday night and it just isn’t worth it to stay on the place and give them others a whole Friday evenin’ to talk to all them girls unmolested.    I’m going to pay for it now though, all day.

So I pulled on my jeans and boots, grabbed a jacket and headed out to the barn.  I look forward to branding each spring like I would my kid brother’s wedding.  It’s a long hard day of work, but all the family joins together for it, cousins, brothers, sisters, uncles, and Grandpa Jim presiding like a king over the whole show.  Then there’s the food at the end of the day.

Gray was waiting in his stall, looking evil, like he knowed what’s up.  Probably an exciting day for him too – lots of other horses to visit with.  Horses ain’t all that smart maybe, but they are social critters and like to be around other ones for the most part.  I brushed him down good while he ate some grain and a little bit of hay, and then I cleaned out around his hooves with a pick.  He looked pretty healthy, but you know how fast a horse can go lame, so I never skip that job.  He showed his appreciation by biting me on the leg while I worked.  I don’t know why I haven’t sold him for glue.  He’s just plain mean.  I don’t know, he might be a relation.

I saddled him up, and rode over to Big Jim’s and put Gray in the trailer along with Jim’s horse.  We have to ride about 18 miles out to the north end where the cattle have been grazing the past few days.  There are about 300 calves waiting anxiously for us there.  We’ll herd them all to a corral about a mile from where they are at, and separate the calves from their mamas.  That always takes a little time but we’ve got some pretty good cattlemen in the family – and even the young ones like participating in the herding.  By the time they are 15, most of them are top hands.  That’s the way we all learned, by doing.

They were just sitting down for some flapjacks, eggs and bacon when I hit the back door – and I sat down and ate enough to keep me going for a while.  Aunt Elizabeth usually makes breakfast and she’s one fine cook – I love them flapjacks she makes.  A good cook makes life worth living, ain’t that right?  I probably shouldn’t have eaten quite so much, but I did have a gallon or two of that black coffee, so maybe them things’ll balance one another out a little bit…

On the Haggedorn Ranch near Saratoga, Wyoming

By then, the light was just beginning to show along the eastern horizon over past Dandy Creek, so it was time to go.  We want to finish this job before the afternoon sun gets too warm and get to the fun.  A little work, then a little fun, that’s the way we do it around here.  Life never gets old that way – so we live long, happy lives! 

I climbed into the cab with Jim, and we bounced down the road for a good long time.  Nobody likes to talk much that time of morning, so that was a blessing.  Some of them younger boys was riding in the back and they was pretty lively – probably arguing about who could whip the biggest coyote or something.  Curley and Little Jim was back there, and Tim Wilson from the Owens place next door.  Tim was getting to be a pretty good hand for a red-haired freckled boy – he came from his family’s place in Reno when he was only about 8 years old – Frank Owens took him in when his mother left them.  He started late, but he was learning right along and by now he’s 17, tall, lanky, just a little bit smart and might just as well be one of Frank’s own kids instead of a nephew. Anyway, everyone comes to help with the branding, that’s just our way.  And he’s a danged fine boy.

Big Jim finally began to talk just a little – a little bit about what he’s got planned for the summer – some of the work needing done, told me a little about Janet might come home for a while this summer.  She’s been going to college down in Brigham City, got a scholarship.  He’s really proud of her – she works hard and never gets in any trouble.  She was always one of my favorites too.  Last year she didn’t come home at all – stayed down in Utah and worked a job all summer to help pay her school expenses.  Janet is my niece and Big Jim’s granddaughter.  I just listened and didn’t say much; I ain’t a morning person.

We stopped near the place where the cows was – and I unloaded Gray.  Jim was going on down to the corral to make sure everything was getting along down there – and my brothers and I would take care of getting the herd moving down that way.  Clint and Louis were already there and ready to go, along with their wives, Rhonda and Mary Ellen.  Them two’s just like regular old cowboys, they never miss a chance to get up and ride; for a couple of city girls, they’s pretty game.  They had the horses already there for the boys, so we got right to work.

We brothers and the boys got the herd moving on down the valley toward the fire.  They was all lively and ready to go, like they didn’t have a clue what fun and games awaited them a mile down the way. But we moved ‘em slow and steady down that beautiful green valley, without getting them too excited – how could anything be wrong in such a beautiful place on such a beautiful day?  The sun was rising up good and strong and hitting the green-gold of the hills and the rim-rock on the western side of the valley.  Things were just aglow in the morning light, with just a slight nip of cold left in the air.  The cows were shuffling along and making low cattle noises.  It’s my favorite time of the day – too bad I never see it most of the time.  I just ain’t a morning person.  That pretty little creek running down through the bottom made me almost wish it was time for fishin’ instead of time for brandin.’  But I wouldn't trade my work for any other, even on its worst day - but that ain't this day. Fence fixin' day, that might be the worst one.

Looking across the herd, me and Louis was riding point, Clint and Little Jim next behind and the others moving back and forth along the flanks, keeping 'em moving steady.  Curley and Tim went ahead to the fire with Jim, and Rhonda and Mary Ellen were riding drag.  Riding along the bottom along the creek, we could see some others stopped along the road, which runs along the ridgeline off to the east. They was all watching the cattle as we moved along the valley floor.  I knew why they watched – I’ve seen the same scene myself and it is one of them Kodak moments.  There’s nothing prettier or more heart-warmin' than some good cattlemen walking a herd through the grass of a cold Wyoming morning, frost from your breath hanging in the air, and all of God’s finest creation surrounding you. Tomorrow, I’ll give thanks for our good fortune down at the First Baptist Church, if they’ll still let me in after word gets around about what I done last night.  God bless my great-grandpa for settling here.

By and by we got them cows and calves down to the branding corral and the cowboys went to work.  A couple of ‘em have good herding dogs and that helps a lot.  You have to separate the mama cows from the baby cows, and the other steers as well.  So we worked together, takin’ turns and got the babies into the corral.  The mamas all hung around right outside the fence, making lots of noise and acting kind of insistent-like. They’ve never been split up from their babies before and they are not happy about it, not at all. The calves, well they all bunched up together at one end, like they always do.  They figure if they are in the middle of a crowd, you can’t get ‘em.  They's wrong though.

Meanwhile, Big Jim and Uncle Randy kept on stokin’ them fires, getting them hotter and hotter and them Bar-H-Bar irons starting to glow with a purpose.  Here’s how it works on branding day at the Haggedorn ranch.  Once the irons are glowing red, the boys lasso a calf.  Doesn’t matter which one (boy or calf), they all get their turn; we got all day.  The boys drag the calves to the fires, and Jim lays that Bar-H-Bar brand hot on the side of their butt.  It’s pretty thick leather, it don’t do nothing more than make ‘em a mite uncomfortable.  It’s what comes next them dogies don’t like much…

Grandma Louise, Aunt Elizabeth and Mary Ellen all got sharp little knives and they can each one castrate a calf in about 6 seconds.  They make a couple little cuts, pull out the vessel and cut off them nuts faster than that calf can moo.  Not much faster though. 

While they’re doing that dark deed, someone else is assaulting the other end of the unfortunate critter with an inoculation or two – whatever Jim has decided they get this time around.  About that time, all hands loose the calf pretty much all at oncet, and he jumps up and runs off and one of the kids lets him out at the gate and he runs back to his mama, who moos loudly in protest at the offenses done her chil’.  Sometimes, the calf stops and looks at the lady who now holds his nuts and bawls balefully in her direction. Of course, all the other mamas are mooing loudly along with the mama, which creates quite a cacophonous concerto.  The one with the balls throws them into a bucket and another calf-victim is dragged up to the fire.

Buck Stevens came by today to lend a hand.  Buck is the cowboy.  He sits his horse like he was born there, and he wears his old weathered chaps, his jingly spurs and his 1965 Champion Cowboy Belt Buckle and his old hat that has seen the Wyoming sun and weather for prob’ly 65 years – since he was a boy. He’s got a handle bar mustache droopin’ almost down to his chin. Buck looks like maybe he’s sleepin’ in the saddle, he don’t move too much – but he always gets his calf.  One throw and that calf is slipped right up to the fire slicker than scum off a Loosiana swamp – and Buck just a’sittin’ there on his horse all business-like and sharp – like a cowboy statue.  I’m telling you, it’s the prettiest thing I ever saw, ‘cept maybe for Bobbi Jo Connelly.  I’ve seen all the young ladies from 12 to 90 swoon when Old Buck walks by. He’s somethin,’ the genuine article and everybody knows it. Them boys all follow him around like puppies after bacon, just waitin' for him to say something.  He don't say much though, lessen he's been into a jug or two.

If we’re lucky, and we usually are, Jim makes sourdough biscuits in a dutch oven about 8 or 9 am while we take a little break – you can have your biscuit with jam or with honey.  And all is well with the world.

The branding, castrating and inoculating goes on and on, until all the calves are “entertained.”  Sometimes, we hold this event along with a couple of neighboring ranches all together – or sometimes we each hold our own; depends on how many calves we’ve all got.  There are enough of us Haggedorns that just doing our own is a big enough day.  But we generally always have the help of any neighbor who can get there – and we attend their celebrations the same way.

Sometimes we finish before lunch, sometimes a bit later.  After a few hours of branding and castrating, the air is heavy with the smell of singed calf hair and blood – it gets intense with all the noise, the smells and the dust - and I am usually more than ready when it is finished, plus a little bit tired and bone-weary.  Folks stand around and talk, and Jim goes out and walks around in the herd, checking to make sure they're all OK and not suffering any ill effects from their party, and finally people slowly take their leave to go home for a short break and wash up, put on some clean clothes and get ready for the pot luck.  The boys take the buckets of nuts to their “nut shack,” a long-time tradition of initiation on the Haggedorn ranch – and many other ranches just like ours.  They will fry them up in a big cast iron skillet that has been on this ranch since the days of chuck wagons and Old Sweet Pea, our long-departed cook; they will eat them all and they will be sick as dogs tomorrow.  It’s a given.

Well, today we finished at 2:30.  I’ve got a sore head – Gray tried to scrape me off on a tree this morning – I was chasing down a runaway and was concentratin’ on that little scamp instead of where he was leading us, and Gray ran under some low-hangin' branches.  One good thick one caught me right in the forehead.  That monster done it deliberate, you know?  I coulda swore I heard that horse laughin.’  Big Jim just laughed at me though  He said take an aspirin and some arnica and get back to work!  Blood don’t faze him much, especially if it ain’t his own.

I took a cool shower and just let that water run over my head for about ten minutes.  It feels better now. I got back over to Ma’s just in time for the dinner – everyone brings something and nobody goes away hungry.  There’s always beef roast and wienies, sausage, beans, taters, tater salad, green stuff, red stuff, bean salad, biscuits, tomatoes, green beans, squash casserole, pies of every kind and cold iced tea by the gallon.  Sometimes there’s a side barbecuing while we work – Uncle Charlie is a damn fine cattleman but he’s an even better pitmaster; so we try to leave him alone with his smoker when we can.  After we all got our fill, we sat around the fire in the backyard and enjoyed the coolness of the air and the starry sky.  The boys were all out in the “nut shack” cleaning up whatever was left.  I think they got one of the pies and escaped with it before Rhonda ran ‘em out of the kitchen with threats of death.  They didn’t seem too concerned though when they ran past here. 

After a while, things slowed down and got all quiet.  I took a turn through the bunkhouse and all them boys was finally snorin' with no thoughts of the calf-fry belly-ache they're gonna have in about three hours.  I got the castor oil ready for 'em though. I went on back to my place and I'm ready to turn in, soon as I finish up writin' this.

In the morning, I can sleep in a little bit before I get up and polish my old self up some.  Then I'm picking up Miss Bobbi Jo from Rawlins and taking her with me to the First Baptist Church.  We'll sit in the front pew, 'cause I figure lettin' everybody in town see how pretty and sweet she is might be good for my reputation;  it won't hurt my disposition any either.  I’m gonna sleep like a log tonight though, and tomorrow?  Well, that’s the day of rest.  Bobbi Jo probably won’t get much though.

Cruising Alaska and the Inside Passage on “Radiance of the Seas”

June 12th to June 19th, 2009  (updated April 14, 2013)

Dave and Gloria

In June of 2009, I went with the Melians to Alaska to celebrate Dave and Gloria’s 50th anniversary and the 25th anniversary of David and Denise, their son and daughter-in-law.  Along for the celebration were Dave and Gloria’s daughter Kathleen Zadikian, her sons Alec and Lucas, David’s daughter Sarah, Adel and Fran Montasir, Jim Melian and… me!  We left (most of us) on June 12th or a few days before in some cases (Dave, Gloria and Jim, & David and Denise went on a cruise-tour to Denali National Park for several days before we all boarded the ship at Seward on June 12th).

The Itinerary: if it’s Saturday, it must be…

Friday 6/12/09:  Phoenix to Anchorage on Alaska Airlines

We had to get to the airport by about 4:30 am or so – so I picked up Fran and Adel Montasir who would be traveling with me at 4:15 am.  We parked my truck at an off-airport lot and their van took us to Terminal 2.  My carry-on was given “special” treatment and my electronics snooped through, poked and prodded, etc.  The lady also gave my Vick’s Vapo-Rub some special consideration, taking a sample and testing it to see if it was some kind of incendiary device. 

My ride to Alaska

Finally, I was able to move on to the gate and waited to board the plane for Seattle.  We took off to the east and the route took us over Flagstaff, Grand Canyon, St George, Ely and I could see Mt Rainier to port as we approached Seattle, circled and landed to the north.  I talked with my seat-row mates quite a bit – a couple who would be cruising almost the same route on the Ryndam as we would on RCCL's Radiance of the Seas.  Nice folks – and we had the same flights home so we promised to compare notes on our experiences afterward.  I gave them my window seat as I often prefer the aisle these days.  Between Phoenix and Seattle I watched a movie on my new DVD player – "The Ladykillers" with Tom Hanks. The flight out of Seattle to Anchorage was also pretty smooth and at times I could see the heavily snow-clad mountain peaks along the Inside Passage and the SE Alaska coastline that we would be cruising in the next few days. 

No second movie though – the batteries in my player are only good for about one film.  We approached Anchorage from east to west and did a downwind south of the field, circling around on a base-leg over the Cook Inlet.  I hate landings in 737s – it always feels like you are going to be thrown through the cockpit windows as the plane falls apart.  Just seems to be the nature of the thing.  Maybe because I always sit in the rear, I don’t know.  At Anchorage, we collected our bags and the Royal Caribbean staff directed us to a waiting area where we waited a few minutes for the coach to take us to Seward. 

Anchorage to Seward (motorcoach)

The motor coach took us to Seward on the… Seward Highway!  Now there’s a surprise! Our driver was a little “talky” but nice enough – some of his humor was lost on the crowd because many of the passengers (foreigners) did not understand American idioms.  I wondered if he knew why not many were laughing. 

The road follows the Turnagain Arm, a fjord, around to its end then curves around to the west and up over the Kenai Range; I think that’s the name of the mountains there.  The scenery is gorgeous Alaska right out of National Geographic, alpine, ice and snow-streaked mountain sides, the Portage Glacier off to the east and the rather still and shallow waters of Turnagain Arm reflecting the light to the west. Turnagain Arm has one of the most active “bore” tides in the world but it wasn’t active when we rode by, so I missed that bit of excitement.  The driver talked of how dangerous that water is – it has so much silt in it that it is similar to quick sand – and many have died when they got mired and all efforts to free them failed (while that fast-moving tide was racing in). There were some very sad stories.

Once past the end of the fjord, we climbed up into the mountains (up and over and down to Seward) and saw lots of tumbling creeks and lakes.  There are some ghost towns along the way.  The ride was a bit long in a “stately” bus, especially since we were anxious to get to the ship – but it was very beautiful.  My only complaint on this 127 mile ride was the driver stopped to take a break – he probably needed it but the rest of us didn’t!   Along the way, I saw one Dall sheep up on the slope above the bus – and also a small group of bison.  It was kind of a surprise to see bison in Alaska.

As we approached Seward along the shoreline of Resurrection Bay, we could see the two cruise ships docked – the Radiance of the Seas and the Ryndam (Holland America Line).  Weather along the way that afternoon was a bit misty at times – it never opened up and poured but there were a few sprinkles.  The entire week we had excellent weather in that regard – it never got cold or rainy in any uncomfortable degree.  I thought it was perfect.

Friday 6/12: Embark Radiance of the Seas at Seward

Radiance of the Seas at Seward, AK

Getting off the bus, we went through the embarkation process in fairly normal fashion.  I can’t say it was quick – but it was done fairly efficiently considering they had 2,500 passengers to process.  Probably the biggest hold-up was security and even that moved steadily.  No complaints.  Once we turned our bags over to RCCL staff at Anchorage Airport, we didn’t have to handle them again until we arrived in our staterooms.  So that was a plus. 

Once onboard the ship, my first thought was dinner.  But I checked out my quarters (very, very nice), met my stateroom attendant (Marcia) and tried to contact Dave. We played phone tag – but the Melians were not yet aboard.  Once they arrived, we decided we’d all meet for dinner – I believe it was the regular seating in the main dining room at 6 pm.  I do remember that first meal was prime rib – and it was one of the better ones that week.  A few minutes before 9 pm – still in daylight – the ship moved itself away from the pier and we followed the Ryndam at a good distance down Resurrection Bay and out into the Gulf of Alaska.  The waters in the bay were rippled but calm and the Gulf wasn’t bad either.  I don’t remember how early I turned in – but I found a book in the ship’s library I wanted to read and before long, I turned over, shut out the lights and went to sleep.

Friday 6/12: Overnight cruise to Yakutat Bay and Hubbard Glacier

How strange it is to wake up at 2:30 AM and be in daylight…  At these latitudes, it just doesn’t get dark in June.  How unusual for an Arizona boy to encounter the midnight sun for the first time!  I didn’t really sleep very well – probably also due to the excitement of being on the cruise of a lifetime.  Although for me, there may be more than just one... I am already planning more Alaska adventures – and my thought is that someday if I have the opportunity – I may just move there.  I still haven’t seen the Aurora Borealis.

Hubbard Glacier

Saturday 6/13:     Hubbard Glacier

The Melians and I did not have breakfast together too many times during the cruise – but we did that first morning.  Afterward, I can’t remember too much of what I did until we got into Yakutat Bay in the early afternoon.  Most of the time when I had nothing planned, I walked around on the top decks, took pictures, wandered through the shops and facilities on board, etc. 

As we entered and sailed through Yakutat Bay, I took photos of the mountains surrounding the bay and more as we sailed around very slowly in front of the glacier. This was one of those places that is so beautiful that you continually snap photos -- a couple don't seem to be enough when you round the next bend and the view seems to be a bit different -- but you end up with 3,447 photos of almost the same thing.  Of course with a digital camera (rather than expensive film) that really isn't a problem, is it? The Ryndam was just ahead of us and I took many photos of that ship as well. 

The water in the bay is full of silt – glacial effluent is gray-brown in color and appears to be watery mud.  The glacier is constantly moving into the sea (it is one of the few remaining advancing glaciers in the world), so the bay is a huge ice field.  The ships have to be careful about how close they get to the glacier’s face, as the ice is constantly breaking off and falling into the sea as gravity takes its toll and the ice loses its base on land. 

Glacial ice is bright sky blue in color – caused by hundreds of years of glacial compression (the compression "bends" the ice and causes the light to refract a certain way). As the ice breaks off the face, you hear a thunderous roar or clap, and then tons of ice slide down like an avalanche into the water.  I was surprised (and a bit disappointed) that it wasn’t “bergs” or huge chunks falling into the sea – but it was more like millions of smaller pieces sliding into the water.  Still, it was an awesome experience to be so close and witness such natural power. 

Rescue Boat and Intrepid Staff

The ship’s cruise director and his sidekick ventured off into the ice in the ship’s “rescue boat” and filmed an episode of their daily show.  They said they even went for a swim (I didn't see it) – in survival suits obviously – or they’d have been dead within seconds in that icy water.  I was asked later by people on the Ryndam… “what were they doing out in the little boat?  Did someone fall overboard?”  Holland-America’s cruise directors are just not as adventurous as RCCL’s!

After a couple of hours, we slowly turned away and sailed back out toward the Gulf of Alaska.  Our ship sailed down the south side of Yakutat Bay and the Ryndam sailed along the north shore, pretty much neck and neck.  I got some pretty photos from the top deck as we sailed together out of the bay.  That was the last we saw of Ryndam for a day – she went to Sitka while we went to Juneau and then both ships spent the third day (Monday) at Skagway.  (Oh man, I want to go to Sitka too!)

As we departed the bay, it was dinnertime.  Supper was always a Melian-group affair in the main dining room.  I don’t think there was any night that any of us chose any other option for dinner. Our table's "waiter" was an elegant young woman from the Philippines named Eloisa Mendoza and her assistant was Gabriela.  I believe Gabriela may have been from India.  Both gave us excellent service each night. 

Eloisa and Gabriela

Of course I tried to joke around with both of them and give them a “hard time.”  They were always good-natured about it (of course they were, that’s their JOB).  They would remember any special requests that each person had – and would bring those same things at each meal afterward.  It was kind of funny – I ordered some extra vegetables the first or second night – and every night thereafter, Eloisa made sure I got extra vegetables.  But I didn’t want extra vegetables every time!  I ordered a glass of milk one evening with my chocolate cake – and Gabriela brought me milk the next night too.  They tried so hard to remember everything, which is great if you think about it.  If I sailed on the Radiance again – I wouldn’t be unhappy to have these same servers again.  They were a delight. 

After dinner, most of the group went to the evening show – I am not too “enthusiastic” about that kind of entertainment – in fact, I loathe it – so I wandered around looking for other things to do.  The one night I went to the main show, I got a headache and left before it was even half over. This may have been the night I tried the movie theater at 10 pm – but that didn’t work out because of some overly “exuberant” teens.  They were nice enough kids – just noisy -- and I am an old fuddy-duddy.

As we enjoyed the evening on board the ship, it steadily made its way down the Gulf of Alaska and through Icy Strait on the way to Juneau.  I finally relaxed in my cabin and read a little in the library book – First Heroes; the Story of the Doolittle Raid --  I never did get it read until after I got back home again.  I drifted off to sleep, and when I awoke on Sunday morning, the ship was in Stephens Passage and approaching the Gastineau Channel on its final miles into Juneau for a port call.  I showered and had breakfast – my first excursion was going to be whale-watching in the waters around Juneau.

Sunday 6/14/09: Docked at Juneau, AK.

I got off the ship among the first passengers I think – my excursion group was supposed to meet on the pier.  I quickly found my bus and boarded to wait for the others to arrive.  The bus was full by the time departure rolled around.  We drove north out of town which doesn’t take long as Juneau is really very small – more a town than a city.  The whale-watching boats leave from Auke Bay a few miles north.  Our driver pointed out the local attractions – including a quick glimpse of Mendenhall Glacier off to our right.  It was about fifteen miles to the marina.  Onboard the whale-watching boat, we headed out into the Stephens Passage and Lynn Canal off Admiralty Island.  We saw quite a few whales and other sea life as well – Steller Sea Lions, a few seals, even some eagles.  

Juneau

The boat would stop when a whale was spotted and we’d drift around watching them dive and surface.  One pod was fishing cooperatively – (called) bubble net fishing – the whales dive down deep as a group and then trap fish in a circle of bubbles from below.  As the whales come up under the fish trapped by the bubble “net,” they simply open their mouths and swallow them all as they surface!  You could see the fish trying to escape by jumping up out of the water ahead of the whales; I don't think too many escaped this way though.  This fishing is directed by one lead whale – usually a dominant female according to the naturalist on board with us; she also said she had never seen this behavior before, even though it was historically well known, so we were very lucky to witness it.  It was thought it was a behavior the whales had “lost” until just a couple of years ago when it was finally observed again.

One memorable scene photographed on this morning was a "buoy-condominium;" off Juneau, we passed by a buoy with sea lions congregating on the bottom deck near the water and an eagle perched on the top.  It was high-density marine housing!  I had this scene put on my Mastercard for a time when I got home.

Back on the ship afterwards, I had lunch in the Windjammer buffet and then hit the town again for a ride on the Mt. Roberts tramway and some shopping.  I really didn’t plan to do anything more than window shop but you know how that goes…  The tram ride takes only a few minutes – and there is a visitor center at the top, a little nature area and a conservation group has a “rescued” eagle in a cabin nearby.  The bird cannot be released because of some injuries it received a few years back. 

I saw a porcupine trying to sleep in the bushes (only the second one I have ever seen), bought some postcards, gave the clerk trouble about not knowing who the Indians were that were pictured in some photos on the walls, and talked to Gloria, Fran, Jim and Adel who had come up the mountain a tram or two before mine.  The view from the top was spectacular and sweeping – Juneau’s situation is very picturesque.  I took photos in all directions. 

After my tram-ride back down, I looked through a salmon packing and selling facility next to the Tramway and then walked back toward the ship to a dockside tourist-trap store.  They had a rain jacket on sale for $20!  I picked it up, put it down, picked it up…  I just couldn’t bring myself to do it.  I put it back, decided NOT to buy it… walked across the store, saw another one (better color) and still only $20.  I mean, how can you go wrong?  It seemed like it would not only be warm, but of good quality otherwise.  So, despite having no room in the suitcase, and trying to save money not spend it, I bought it.  Haven’t worn it yet, but it WAS ONLY $20!  I am such a mark.




Leaving Juneau

Sunday 6/14: Overnight cruise to Skagway

Watching the Radiance back away from a dock is fascinating – 90,000 tons of ship the size of an aircraft carrier moves on its own with no assistance from tugs – with seemingly precise inch-by-inch control.  The Rhapsody of the Seas was also in Juneau, along with the Zaandam.  Rhapsody left first and I watched her as she sidled away from her pier and then moved off down the Gastineau Channel.  A few minutes later, we did the same and I could see Rhapsody way ahead of us as we rounded the point into Stephens Passage and moved north into the Lynn Canal toward Skagway (can you see Rhapsody in the photo?). It was dinnertime and then, even though it was a bit chilly, I walked around on top and watched the scenery before turning in fairly early – my excursion in Skagway was another early one. This was one of my favorite evenings of the cruise -- the beauty of the surroundings and the still serenity of the waters and our progress through them was simply magical, tranquil and peaceful.  It was hard to tear myself away from the railing and go inside as it got dark. 

These ships plan their speed so you arrive at the next port precisely when scheduled – in most cases the distance between these ports could have been covered much quicker than we actually did.  

Monday 6/15: Docked at Skagway

My excursion, a bicycle tour down from White Pass, didn’t have that many participants – but there were a few from the other ships in port with us (Rhapsody, a Princess, and Ryndam).  So we clambered into the van, which is pulling a trailer with the bicycles on it – and we drive off to get the others from their ships.  The guides are two cute young ladies, about college-age, and our driver also is very personable.  Their enthusiasm was contagious, although I am most resistant to that sort of thing early in the morning.  We cruised through town, them talking and answering questions about their summer life there with the bicycle tour company. We drive to the top of White Pass – about 15 or 20 miles altogether – and at the top they unload the bicycles and we pick one that suits us.  Everyone gets a helmet – and they have gloves too if we want to use them.  I do.  It seems a bit chilly.

We get the safety briefing and learn what the hand signals they will use mean.  One girl leads us, the other follows behind to help keep the stragglers together and we head down the mountain with the Sockeye Cycle Company!  After riding the brakes for several miles, I wonder, how long do these bicycle brake pads last on the very steep and fifteen mile long White Pass?  How many Sockeye Bicycle Tour riders are killed each year when these brake pads fail?  I’m just saying… She says they are replaced every couple of weeks.  I am not convinced. But, we do make it to the first rest break with no lives lost; the breaks are planned at some very nice look-out points which we share with many others who are in buses and cars – not as intrepid as us bike riders for sure.  I definitely feel superior today.  My south-end, however, is starting to get a bit numb, but the ride and the scenery are both exhilarating. 

We ride bikes down a mountain.

We arrive at the USA border station.  We have been riding back and forth across the US/Canadian border on this rather snaky highway – but there is only one station.  They are used to the bike (and probably other) tours, so the lead girl talks with them a moment or two and then we are waved through without checks.  We stop beyond the gate for water and restroom, which I definitely need by now; then, on down the mountain.  I wish we could go just a little faster – the girls keep our speeds low because some of the riders are very shaky and wobbly.  I don’t want to race down the mountain, but just a little faster would be fun.  As we get lower, there are a couple of short up-hills and I almost die.  How can I get that out of breath that quickly?  Anyway, the uphills are mercifully short.

I am starting to flag as we ride into Skagway – not tire so much maybe but I am getting a little saddle sore.  I sit sideways or a little off-center for a distance to make it “wear” on something else for a change.  Finally, we wind through Skagway and our tour is over.  I discover I have greased my pants leg on the chain – so I walk next door to a clothing shop and buy a pair of good work pants.  I will see if the ship’s laundry can get out the grease on my jeans when I get back (although I never did).  I just wrapped them in a plastic sack, and washed them myself when I got back home.  Unfortunately, I also bought two t-shirts that I couldn’t resist.  Where am I going to pack all this stuff for the ride home?  First a rain jacket, now three more pieces of clothing.

Now I walk back to the ship, taking some photos along the way.  The ship’s lifeboat crews are practicing in the water beside the ship – and it is getting a little misty or rainy.  I have lunch – and then try to walk back into Skagway to explore a little.  On the dock, I change my mind as it seems like it is going to rain a bit more.  I guess that leaves me something to do next time I go to Skagway.  So, instead I watch from the top as the helicopters and airplanes fly around, and eventually, just before we sailed, an Alaskan ferry (Columbia) arrives and docks near us.  Rhapsody leaves first (again). And then we sail too. 

Monday 6/15: Overnight cruise to Icy Strait Point then...

Tuesday 6/16: Anchored off Icy Strait Point and Hoonah

Icy Strait Point is on Chichigof Island and is the home of some of Alaska’s Tlingit people.  I thought these were an Athabaskan people – but have found out they are not.  Don’t know if someone taught that wrong, or if I just was not remembering the teaching correctly.  Anyway, after breakfast, I waited in the theater for my group to get aboard the tender for the trip ashore.  No pier here at Hoonah.  They only allow one cruise ship there at a time, so their facilities and tours are not overwhelmed.

Tender

After tendering ashore, I inquire about my bear-watching tour then have a seat to wait for the appointed time.  At about 0800, my tour escort Paula leads us to our school bus and we head out to the back-country behind the town to a place where soon, I'm told, bears will be hanging out, catching and eating all the salmon they can see.  Not today though, unfortunately.  I wonder if these people knew the bears were not out yet, but take our money anyway?  The thought, at least, crossed my mind.  I don’t know if any other tours today saw bears.  Along with each bear watching group goes a man with a big-bore rifle; he stays out of sight so as not to upset the tourists… but we know he’s right there somewhere, just in case.

The land was beautiful – and while we waited for bears to come we talked quietly.  Paula tells us why she enjoys life there so much.  Finally, we ride back to Hoonah and I tender back out to the ship for lunch.  I come back ashore for a cooking class after lunch.  This was about the only excursion that did not meet my expectations – although if I had read a little closer (or understood better) I probably would have realized it would not be my ideal. 

First, the leader showed how to filet a salmon, and later, a halibut.  Not something I will ever do, unfortunately, since I buy my fish already filleted.  Then, we were to grill our fish and have lunch.  Most of what they were eating, I wouldn't, ever.  I don’t care for salmon – I was hoping for the halibut and/or crab, etc.  But not much of the show was devoted to those.  The leader (a local fishwife) was very good, interesting and friendly; it just wasn't “my” topic.  So I left before it was over – and didn't eat either; I did try to be respectful while leaving, just so you know; I didn't feel like the problem was theirs.  Next time, I am doing the ZIPLINE.  Hoo-ah! 

Tuesday 6/16: Overnight cruise to Ketchikan

This was the evening we had our celebration.  We all met in formal attire for dinner in the dining room (well, as close to "formal" as I ever get), and after dinner we posed for a group photo on the ship’s main staircase (think Titanic’s Grand Staircase).  We were at that time sailing along the Chatham Strait past Admiralty and Baranof Islands – with gorgeous snow-capped and rugged mountains on both sides.  After dinner and the festivities, I spent a lot of time top-side trying to get some decent photographs.

Ketchikan, AK

Wednesday 6/17: Docked at Ketchikan

I had no excursions planned for Ketchikan – I did get off the boat and walk around town with Dave and Jim for a short time.  After lunch, back on board, I hung around and watched the activities on the water around the area – fishing boats and others, and lots of float-planes flying on and off the water, until it was time to sail again.

Wednesday 6/17: Overnight cruise traversing Hecate Strait then...

Thursday 6/18: Hecate Strait and Inside Passage

This was the “at-sea” day.  In the early morning, I was still in bed in the soft light and I saw another ship approaching and passing us – it was a classic-looking cruise ship of Holland America – I cannot remember now exactly which one.  It was headed north as we were cruising south.  Later in the afternoon, we were passed by (among others) an ocean-going tug.  I snapped a few shots of that as it approached and charged on past. The Alaska State ferry Columbia also cruised near us for quite some time, both of us heading south.

In early evening, we entered the Inside Passage.  This was a disappointment – most of that very beautiful stretch of water and its scenery slipped past in the dark.  On this route, there is no way to see everything on one trip – there isn’t a “throwaway” section of it anywhere -- and the ship does not stop at night.  It’s all beautiful, but you miss the night-time portions.  I stayed up on the top of the ship as long as I could see anything at all.

The Inside Passage

Thursday 6/18:    Overnight through the Inside Passage

Friday 6/19: Early morning to Vancouver and flight home via Seattle

Getting off is always an ordeal – but tolerable.  Once you realize what is involved, what the routine is, you simply plan to be patient, knowing that no matter what happens you will be getting off the ship within a certain amount of time. I packed my bags the night before, tagged them and put them in the hallway for the crew as requested.  In the morning, I had a quick breakfast and looked around at Vancouver and the harbor for a time until it was my appointed time to queue up for the disembarkation process.  We got a bus ride to the airport – and cleared U.S. customs there instead of in Seattle.  That made things a bit smoother. From Vancouver to Seattle was a short hop in a (Horizon Air) Q400 – and then Alaska Airlines again non-stop to Phoenix.  I upgraded to first class – only the second time in my life I’ve ever done that.  It’s usually not worth the extra money, but Alaska upgraded me for $50.  I figured what the heck.

Shipboard Experiences

I didn’t sleep-in much along the way – there was too much to do, even if that just meant relaxing.  Later in the week, I didn’t get up quite as early as I hadn’t planned any shore excursions in Ketchikan (on Wednesday), and on Thursday 6/18 we were not docked, but running between Ketchikan and Vancouver in the Hecate Straits, Queen Charlotte Strait and Sound and the Inside Passage.  Most mornings, I got up, showered and went to breakfast, leaving a “make-up room” tag on the door so Ms. Marcia could get mine done early. 

Although I shared breakfast with my cruising companions once or twice, most days our differing schedules precluded that.  I ate breakfast once in the Cascades dining room, but having to share my breakfast table with strangers is not ever my first choice, so most days I ate at the Windjammer buffet.  For the first several days, I tended to over-eat as I think most do on cruise ships, where the food and your consumption of it is unlimited.  But by the last couple of days I started self-controlling a bit better and cut back – and did some walking around the top deck – I actually lost 3 pounds in the last two days aboard ship.  I even surprised me and felt great doing it. Eat less, walk more, lose weight and feel better!

On Sunday, Monday and Tuesday, I had early morning shore excursions – so I had to eat in a hurry and get out there.  Wednesday and Thursday, as I said, I stayed aboard the ship a bit later and so was able to relax a little more.  I usually returned to the ship for lunch – and if I had no afternoon excursion I hung about the top deck taking pictures of wherever we were at the time – Juneau, Skagway, Icy Strait Point and Ketchikan. 

Dinner was always with the Melian family at our table (#509) in the Cascades dining room where Eloisa and Gabriela catered to our every whim.  Their service was pretty wonderful, all things considered.  In the evenings, I roamed about the ship, checked out the shops and the photo galleries, visited with Dave and generally relaxed and enjoyed myself.  I tried to read that book I found in the ship’s library but never got too far into it. I finally gave up and just checked it out of the local library when I returned home.

The first few days – the midnight sun kept things illuminated all night long.  It never got darker than twilight.  I wanted to, but did not see the Northern Lights.  I have to say that despite the novelty, it was hard to sleep with daylight twenty-four hours a day.  As we got further south, that particular treat ended and it was dark from about 10 pm or so on (and I slept better too).

Things on the ship I really liked:  

Walking around on the top deck, looking at the beautiful Alaskan topography and seascapes; the towel critters my cabin attendant Marcia made each evening when she’d turn down the bed; the cabin attendants all along my hallway on Deck 3 saying hello whenever they’d see you – and it never seemed false or forced; the steam room; the hot tubs; the presentation by the retired RCMP Mounty, Mr. Michael Glas (he spoke on Sitting Bull and his tenure in Canada after the Little Bighorn, so that was right up my alley).

Cabin Critter

Cabin

My cabin on Deck 3, port side, number 3134, was beautiful – nicer than most motel rooms I’ve stayed in.  Marcia, the attendant (or steward) made sure things were always ship-shape. The water pressure wasn’t strong, but I suspect that is by design to conserve water since it is a precious commodity aboard a ship at sea.  I had a beautiful round port-hole-like picture window – and I was just above water level so I could look out and see what was happening with the sea at any time.  I don’t like inside cabins nearly as much.  You cannot be outside all the time…  The bed was snug, soft and comfy – the linens were very, very nice…

Food

The food was remarkable considering the ships culinary staff feeds 2500 people three times each day… plus.  It isn’t 5-star, but I sure never went hungry.  They even served lobster one evening.  One disappointment was the one steak I had – smothered in a too-strong Béarnaise sauce and a bit too tough.  I didn’t order one again, although Jim had a well-done sirloin almost every single meal and was very happy to do so.  Breakfast in the buffet was usually scrambled eggs, of course, hash browns a la Burger King, some fruit… one morning I tried the biscuits and gravy – not more than once though.  It just wasn’t that good.  I usually had a healthy pile of very sinful bacon though. 

Breakfast was one meal where it was easy to cut back on quantities – the buffet fare was almost uniformly good but I feel better with a lighter breakfast so I learned to take it easy and stopped sooner (than I did at other meals perhaps).  I tried different things for lunch – probably the best was some mushroom or chicken soup and a small section of “wrap” one afternoon.  They typically had some type of carved meat – ham one day, pork one day, once lamb.  I never did eat at a restaurant off the ship – which was one way to save money since I had already paid for the privilege of eating onboard.  I ate a meal from room service once and I ate at the Seaview Café, I think twice – it was the burger, dog and clam chowder venue onboard the Radiance, but it was later removed and replaced during the Radiance’s refurbishing in 2011.  I don't know what Radiance has now instead.

Amenities/Activities

Steam Room – I discovered the steam room about four or five days into the cruise.  Dave took me there and we roasted and simmered for a time.  I thought it might help open up my head a little, as I had been afflicted by some inner ear congestion for several weeks.  I really liked the steam room – and we almost always had it to ourselves.  I think no one else knows it is there.

The Pool Deck

Hot tub – harder to get to yourself; there were two on the pool deck and one in the Solarium. I soaked in these once or twice I think.  I never got into the pool, although the water appeared to be nicely heated and steamy.  This is important when you are steaming in the vicinity of glaciers.

Shows – I guess I will never be a show-kind-of-guy.  It’s like live Lawrence Welk -- just not for me.  I went to one show that featured a comedian – and I didn’t even like his show.  Why do something on vacation that you don’t enjoy?  Dave tried to get me back in there several times – but I was a fuddy-duddy and flat refused.  I know what I like – and what I don’t.

Presentations – the Mounty’s presentation was at least interesting and even if he was a bit unpolished as a speaker, I really enjoyed his talk.  I offered to write some additional information about Sitting Bull for him and send it to him.  He doesn’t have the typical cop-bravado; perhaps that is because he is a polite Canadian. 

Casino – I wasted zero-time and zero-dollars in the ship’s casino.  The coupon booklet that came with my Crown and Anchor membership had a free spin of a $3 Slot – and I stopped by just exactly long enough to throw that into the machine and lose it.  Then I split.  That's not how I feel about Royal Caribbean's casinos -- it's how I feel about casinos, period.

Theater – I went to the movie theater once – to see "Get Smart" at about 10 pm one evening.  The only others in attendance were teenagers.  And they were noisy little buggers.  So I did not stay.  I also closed the door rather firmly as I left to show evidence of my displeasure – but I doubt they even noticed.   I did want to see one film they were showing on Alaska – but I never could get the timing right – it always seemed to be showing when I was doing something else more important – like visiting, or eating.

Miniature Golf – I played the little 9-hole course once.  It was pretty basic although that doesn’t mean easy – it just wasn't too imaginative in design.  Most of the difficulty was in uneven surfaces.   

Ports of Call

Seward was simply the embarkation point.  On my tight schedule, there was no opportunity to check out the town or its highlights.  It sits at the base of a coastal hill – on one side of the end of Resurrection Bay.  It’s a scenic area – but not as pretty as some of the other stops we made later.

Hubbard Glacier – Gorgeous, remote and primitive.  You’re definitely out there when you visit this place.

Juneau – totally isolated from road transportation.  The only way in is by boat or air. Juneau is in a very scenic location – perhaps the prettiest of all the settled places we stopped.

Skagway – I liked the rustic nature of Skagway and in hind-sight would have liked to have spent more time there and less at Hoonah.  I didn’t have enough time to walk around and see the town and more than any other port, I would have liked to there.  I had a walk around town pre-planned, with a visit to the cemetery, but I got rained out.

Icy Strait Point and Hoonah / Tendering -- An ok day all things considered, it would have been much better if I had actually seen bears on my bear watching expedition.  I’ll bet folks who did the zip-line had more fun than me…  Tendering ashore means getting off the ship onto a smaller boat – and that takes you to the shore-side dock.  This was the only port where we used the tenders – and the crew actually practiced their maneuvering the day before while the ship was docked at Skagway.

Ketchikan – a beautiful little fishing town where I’d probably like to live.  I wonder if they need a bakery?

Excursions

Whale Watching – Good. Whales catching fish! (no Orcas, though).

Mt Roberts Tramway – Good, very scenic.

Bike Ride – Great fun!  Sore butt.

Bear Search – Nice morning – great guide.  No bears showed up.  They are never guaranteed – but I wonder what the percentage is?

Culinary Extravaganza – would have been great if I had been interested in the program or enthusiastic about salmon. My mistake, not theirs.

The Ship

GTV Radiance of the Seas was magnificent.  You might ask, what is “GTV?”  I believe it stands for Gas Turbine Vessel.  Radiance and her sisters are powered by twin GE turbine engines of the same basic type used to loft DC-10 jumbo jets (adapted of course for marine propulsion usage).  Using these engines to power a ship was first tried by the Navy – to propel ships that needed to accelerate and stop quickly  – destroyers or frigates, for example.  So the Radiance of the Seas is like a 90,000 ton sports car.  It’s fast, it’s maneuverable. Like most modern cruise ships, the screws are mounted in “pods” that swivel to direct their thrust and there are thrusters on the bow-sides as well.  Radiance of the Seas is driven through the seas by two eighteen-foot propellers; the ship is “stabilized,” which means that it has devices that help it ride smoothly in rough seas.  I’m not sure how well that system works – it never really got rough during the seven days of my cruise. But I rarely felt the ship roll and never felt any yawing whatsoever, so perhaps it works really well.

·        Parking…  Unlike some ships, Radiance probably never needs assistance from tugs or the like to get in and out of tight places.  It docks and undocks with unbelievable precision – without a bump or a grind along the way.  The entire ship can move broadside at one or two inches per hour.  It’s awesome and fascinating to watch.

·        Dimensions (how big is it?) Radiance of the Seas is 962 feet long, displaces 90,090 tons (almost 1½ times more than Titanic!), is 106 feet across and towers 173 feet above the waterline on a calm day.  That's a big boat! She can cruise at 28 mph, but doesn’t usually go quite that fast – I rarely saw our speed much above 21 or 22 knots (25 mph).  Many times we were moseying along at 13 or 15 knots (17 mph).  The ship can accommodate about 2,500 souls.  The elevators however, can only accommodate about ¼ of that number… a particular sore point with me.  By the way, don’t you just love people who shove their way into a crowded elevator whether there is room or not, or push in before those getting off have a chance to do so? So many people have no manners whatsoever.

The weather (June 2009)

- No rain (well, not much anyway)

- Visibility excellent, not much fog or low clouds.

- Temps were comfortable – cold near the glacier, tolerable daytime, nights chilly. 

- Mid-June 2009 was a GREAT time for an Alaska cruise.

Lessons learned about cruising on this trip…

- Don’t take so many clothes

- Make your own flight reservations, but use the cruiseline's transfers

- Control the intake of food

- Exercise every day

Highlights

(other than simply the joy of being on an Alaska cruise...)

- Dining Room Staff (Eloisa and Gabriela)

- Cabin Attendant (Marcia)

- Skagway Bike Ride

- Whales

- Hubbard Glacier (was awesome)

- Pilot boat rendezvous (we picked up a pilot for the Inside Passage).

Disappointments - (keep in mind, "disappointment" is a relative term...)

- No bears came calling

- Cooking demo/excursion (the specific focus was just not my thing).

How I got home...

Wrapping it up...

My time aboard the Radiance of the Seas was a delight -- the adventure of it all, being with my friends, the scenery...  I hope to experience Alaska again, if I am once again lucky.  Some folks find every little thing to complain about; I have sailed with Royal Caribbean four times and each was an enjoyable experience, given the limitations of cruising with a multitude of people accompanying you.  All things considered, I'd definitely cruise again and it will most likely be on a Royal Caribbean vessel.  While I think RCCL has a lot of class and runs a quality operation, I do not have the same level of confidence in some of the other cruise lines.  

When I wrote this, it was two years since the cruise -- and I was jones'n for another one right then.  My friends were cruising the Caribbean.  So I relived my adventure by posting this... and I think I will start planning my next cruise right now.

Dave

In memory of my best friend, Dave Melian, who passed from this life on September 12, 2012. He lived his faith every day. I will never forget the many good times we had together and our nearly 50 years of friendship. He was simply the best.