6/07/2011

Cruising Alaska and the Inside Passage on “Radiance of the Seas”

June 12th to June 19th, 2009  (updated April 14, 2013)

Dave and Gloria
In June of 2009, I went with the Melians to Alaska to celebrate Dave and Gloria’s 50th anniversary and the 25th anniversary of David and Denise, their son and daughter-in-law.  Along for the celebration were Dave and Gloria’s daughter Kathleen Zadikian, her sons Alec and Lucas, David’s daughter Sarah, Adel and Fran Montasir, Jim Melian and… me!  We left (most of us) on June 12th or a few days before in some cases (Dave, Gloria and Jim, & David and Denise went on a cruise-tour to Denali National Park for several days before we all boarded the ship at Seward on June 12th).

The Itinerary: if it’s Saturday, it must be…

Friday 6/12/09:  Phoenix to Anchorage on Alaska Airlines
We had to get to the airport by about 4:30 am or so – so I picked up Fran and Adel Montasir who would be traveling with me at 4:15 am.  We parked my truck at an off-airport lot and their van took us to Terminal 2.  My carry-on was given “special” treatment and my electronics snooped through, poked and prodded, etc.  The lady also gave my Vick’s Vapo-Rub some special consideration, taking a sample and testing it to see if it was some kind of incendiary device. 

My ride to Alaska
Finally, I was able to move on to the gate and waited to board the plane for Seattle.  We took off to the east and the route took us over Flagstaff, Grand Canyon, St George, Ely and I could see Mt Rainier to port as we approached Seattle, circled and landed to the north.  I talked with my seat-row mates quite a bit – a couple who would be cruising almost the same route on the Ryndam as we would on RCCL's Radiance of the Seas.  Nice folks – and we had the same flights home so we promised to compare notes on our experiences afterward.  I gave them my window seat as I often prefer the aisle these days.  Between Phoenix and Seattle I watched a movie on my new DVD player – "The Ladykillers" with Tom Hanks. The flight out of Seattle to Anchorage was also pretty smooth and at times I could see the heavily snow-clad mountain peaks along the Inside Passage and the SE Alaska coastline that we would be cruising in the next few days. 

No second movie though – the batteries in my player are only good for about one film.  We approached Anchorage from east to west and did a downwind south of the field, circling around on a base-leg over the Cook Inlet.  I hate landings in 737s – it always feels like you are going to be thrown through the cockpit windows as the plane falls apart.  Just seems to be the nature of the thing.  Maybe because I always sit in the rear, I don’t know.  At Anchorage, we collected our bags and the Royal Caribbean staff directed us to a waiting area where we waited a few minutes for the coach to take us to Seward. 

Anchorage to Seward (motorcoach)
The motor coach took us to Seward on the… Seward Highway!  Now there’s a surprise! Our driver was a little “talky” but nice enough – some of his humor was lost on the crowd because many of the passengers (foreigners) did not understand American idioms.  I wondered if he knew why not many were laughing. 

The road follows the Turnagain Arm, a fjord, around to its end then curves around to the west and up over the Kenai Range; I think that’s the name of the mountains there.  The scenery is gorgeous Alaska right out of National Geographic, alpine, ice and snow-streaked mountain sides, the Portage Glacier off to the east and the rather still and shallow waters of Turnagain Arm reflecting the light to the west. Turnagain Arm has one of the most active “bore” tides in the world but it wasn’t active when we rode by, so I missed that bit of excitement.  The driver talked of how dangerous that water is – it has so much silt in it that it is similar to quick sand – and many have died when they got mired and all efforts to free them failed (while that fast-moving tide was racing in). There were some very sad stories.

Once past the end of the fjord, we climbed up into the mountains (up and over and down to Seward) and saw lots of tumbling creeks and lakes.  There are some ghost towns along the way.  The ride was a bit long in a “stately” bus, especially since we were anxious to get to the ship – but it was very beautiful.  My only complaint on this 127 mile ride was the driver stopped to take a break – he probably needed it but the rest of us didn’t!   Along the way, I saw one Dall sheep up on the slope above the bus – and also a small group of bison.  It was kind of a surprise to see bison in Alaska.

As we approached Seward along the shoreline of Resurrection Bay, we could see the two cruise ships docked – the Radiance of the Seas and the Ryndam (Holland America Line).  Weather along the way that afternoon was a bit misty at times – it never opened up and poured but there were a few sprinkles.  The entire week we had excellent weather in that regard – it never got cold or rainy in any uncomfortable degree.  I thought it was perfect.

Friday 6/12: Embark Radiance of the Seas at Seward
Radiance of the Seas at Seward, AK
Getting off the bus, we went through the embarkation process in fairly normal fashion.  I can’t say it was quick – but it was done fairly efficiently considering they had 2,500 passengers to process.  Probably the biggest hold-up was security and even that moved steadily.  No complaints.  Once we turned our bags over to RCCL staff at Anchorage Airport, we didn’t have to handle them again until we arrived in our staterooms.  So that was a plus. 

Once onboard the ship, my first thought was dinner.  But I checked out my quarters (very, very nice), met my stateroom attendant (Marcia) and tried to contact Dave. We played phone tag – but the Melians were not yet aboard.  Once they arrived, we decided we’d all meet for dinner – I believe it was the regular seating in the main dining room at 6 pm.  I do remember that first meal was prime rib – and it was one of the better ones that week.  A few minutes before 9 pm – still in daylight – the ship moved itself away from the pier and we followed the Ryndam at a good distance down Resurrection Bay and out into the Gulf of Alaska.  The waters in the bay were rippled but calm and the Gulf wasn’t bad either.  I don’t remember how early I turned in – but I found a book in the ship’s library I wanted to read and before long, I turned over, shut out the lights and went to sleep.

Friday 6/12: Overnight cruise to Yakutat Bay and Hubbard Glacier
How strange it is to wake up at 2:30 AM and be in daylight…  At these latitudes, it just doesn’t get dark in June.  How unusual for an Arizona boy to encounter the midnight sun for the first time!  I didn’t really sleep very well – probably also due to the excitement of being on the cruise of a lifetime.  Although for me, there may be more than just one... I am already planning more Alaska adventures – and my thought is that someday if I have the opportunity – I may just move there.  I still haven’t seen the Aurora Borealis.

Hubbard Glacier
Saturday 6/13:     Hubbard Glacier
The Melians and I did not have breakfast together too many times during the cruise – but we did that first morning.  Afterward, I can’t remember too much of what I did until we got into Yakutat Bay in the early afternoon.  Most of the time when I had nothing planned, I walked around on the top decks, took pictures, wandered through the shops and facilities on board, etc. 

As we entered and sailed through Yakutat Bay, I took photos of the mountains surrounding the bay and more as we sailed around very slowly in front of the glacier. This was one of those places that is so beautiful that you continually snap photos -- a couple don't seem to be enough when you round the next bend and the view seems to be a bit different -- but you end up with 3,447 photos of almost the same thing.  Of course with a digital camera (rather than expensive film) that really isn't a problem, is it? The Ryndam was just ahead of us and I took many photos of that ship as well. 

The water in the bay is full of silt – glacial effluent is gray-brown in color and appears to be watery mud.  The glacier is constantly moving into the sea (it is one of the few remaining advancing glaciers in the world), so the bay is a huge ice field.  The ships have to be careful about how close they get to the glacier’s face, as the ice is constantly breaking off and falling into the sea as gravity takes its toll and the ice loses its base on land. 

Glacial ice is bright sky blue in color – caused by hundreds of years of glacial compression (the compression "bends" the ice and causes the light to refract a certain way). As the ice breaks off the face, you hear a thunderous roar or clap, and then tons of ice slide down like an avalanche into the water.  I was surprised (and a bit disappointed) that it wasn’t “bergs” or huge chunks falling into the sea – but it was more like millions of smaller pieces sliding into the water.  Still, it was an awesome experience to be so close and witness such natural power. 

Rescue Boat and Intrepid Staff
The ship’s cruise director and his sidekick ventured off into the ice in the ship’s “rescue boat” and filmed an episode of their daily show.  They said they even went for a swim (I didn't see it) – in survival suits obviously – or they’d have been dead within seconds in that icy water.  I was asked later by people on the Ryndam… “what were they doing out in the little boat?  Did someone fall overboard?”  Holland-America’s cruise directors are just not as adventurous as RCCL’s!

After a couple of hours, we slowly turned away and sailed back out toward the Gulf of Alaska.  Our ship sailed down the south side of Yakutat Bay and the Ryndam sailed along the north shore, pretty much neck and neck.  I got some pretty photos from the top deck as we sailed together out of the bay.  That was the last we saw of Ryndam for a day – she went to Sitka while we went to Juneau and then both ships spent the third day (Monday) at Skagway.  (Oh man, I want to go to Sitka too!)

As we departed the bay, it was dinnertime.  Supper was always a Melian-group affair in the main dining room.  I don’t think there was any night that any of us chose any other option for dinner. Our table's "waiter" was an elegant young woman from the Philippines named Eloisa Mendoza and her assistant was Gabriela.  I believe Gabriela may have been from India.  Both gave us excellent service each night. 

Eloisa and Gabriela
Of course I tried to joke around with both of them and give them a “hard time.”  They were always good-natured about it (of course they were, that’s their JOB).  They would remember any special requests that each person had – and would bring those same things at each meal afterward.  It was kind of funny – I ordered some extra vegetables the first or second night – and every night thereafter, Eloisa made sure I got extra vegetables.  But I didn’t want extra vegetables every time!  I ordered a glass of milk one evening with my chocolate cake – and Gabriela brought me milk the next night too.  They tried so hard to remember everything, which is great if you think about it.  If I sailed on the Radiance again – I wouldn’t be unhappy to have these same servers again.  They were a delight. 

After dinner, most of the group went to the evening show – I am not too “enthusiastic” about that kind of entertainment – in fact, I loathe it – so I wandered around looking for other things to do.  The one night I went to the main show, I got a headache and left before it was even half over. This may have been the night I tried the movie theater at 10 pm – but that didn’t work out because of some overly “exuberant” teens.  They were nice enough kids – just noisy -- and I am an old fuddy-duddy.

As we enjoyed the evening on board the ship, it steadily made its way down the Gulf of Alaska and through Icy Strait on the way to Juneau.  I finally relaxed in my cabin and read a little in the library book – First Heroes; the Story of the Doolittle Raid --  I never did get it read until after I got back home again.  I drifted off to sleep, and when I awoke on Sunday morning, the ship was in Stephens Passage and approaching the Gastineau Channel on its final miles into Juneau for a port call.  I showered and had breakfast – my first excursion was going to be whale-watching in the waters around Juneau.

Sunday 6/14/09: Docked at Juneau, AK.
I got off the ship among the first passengers I think – my excursion group was supposed to meet on the pier.  I quickly found my bus and boarded to wait for the others to arrive.  The bus was full by the time departure rolled around.  We drove north out of town which doesn’t take long as Juneau is really very small – more a town than a city.  The whale-watching boats leave from Auke Bay a few miles north.  Our driver pointed out the local attractions – including a quick glimpse of Mendenhall Glacier off to our right.  It was about fifteen miles to the marina.  Onboard the whale-watching boat, we headed out into the Stephens Passage and Lynn Canal off Admiralty Island.  We saw quite a few whales and other sea life as well – Steller Sea Lions, a few seals, even some eagles.  

Juneau
The boat would stop when a whale was spotted and we’d drift around watching them dive and surface.  One pod was fishing cooperatively – (called) bubble net fishing – the whales dive down deep as a group and then trap fish in a circle of bubbles from below.  As the whales come up under the fish trapped by the bubble “net,” they simply open their mouths and swallow them all as they surface!  You could see the fish trying to escape by jumping up out of the water ahead of the whales; I don't think too many escaped this way though.  This fishing is directed by one lead whale – usually a dominant female according to the naturalist on board with us; she also said she had never seen this behavior before, even though it was historically well known, so we were very lucky to witness it.  It was thought it was a behavior the whales had “lost” until just a couple of years ago when it was finally observed again.

One memorable scene photographed on this morning was a "buoy-condominium;" off Juneau, we passed by a buoy with sea lions congregating on the bottom deck near the water and an eagle perched on the top.  It was high-density marine housing!  I had this scene put on my Mastercard for a time when I got home.

Back on the ship afterwards, I had lunch in the Windjammer buffet and then hit the town again for a ride on the Mt. Roberts tramway and some shopping.  I really didn’t plan to do anything more than window shop but you know how that goes…  The tram ride takes only a few minutes – and there is a visitor center at the top, a little nature area and a conservation group has a “rescued” eagle in a cabin nearby.  The bird cannot be released because of some injuries it received a few years back. 

I saw a porcupine trying to sleep in the bushes (only the second one I have ever seen), bought some postcards, gave the clerk trouble about not knowing who the Indians were that were pictured in some photos on the walls, and talked to Gloria, Fran, Jim and Adel who had come up the mountain a tram or two before mine.  The view from the top was spectacular and sweeping – Juneau’s situation is very picturesque.  I took photos in all directions. 

After my tram-ride back down, I looked through a salmon packing and selling facility next to the Tramway and then walked back toward the ship to a dockside tourist-trap store.  They had a rain jacket on sale for $20!  I picked it up, put it down, picked it up…  I just couldn’t bring myself to do it.  I put it back, decided NOT to buy it… walked across the store, saw another one (better color) and still only $20.  I mean, how can you go wrong?  It seemed like it would not only be warm, but of good quality otherwise.  So, despite having no room in the suitcase, and trying to save money not spend it, I bought it.  Haven’t worn it yet, but it WAS ONLY $20!  I am such a mark.



Leaving Juneau
Sunday 6/14: Overnight cruise to Skagway
Watching the Radiance back away from a dock is fascinating – 90,000 tons of ship the size of an aircraft carrier moves on its own with no assistance from tugs – with seemingly precise inch-by-inch control.  The Rhapsody of the Seas was also in Juneau, along with the Zaandam.  Rhapsody left first and I watched her as she sidled away from her pier and then moved off down the Gastineau Channel.  A few minutes later, we did the same and I could see Rhapsody way ahead of us as we rounded the point into Stephens Passage and moved north into the Lynn Canal toward Skagway (can you see Rhapsody in the photo?). It was dinnertime and then, even though it was a bit chilly, I walked around on top and watched the scenery before turning in fairly early – my excursion in Skagway was another early one. This was one of my favorite evenings of the cruise -- the beauty of the surroundings and the still serenity of the waters and our progress through them was simply magical, tranquil and peaceful.  It was hard to tear myself away from the railing and go inside as it got dark. 

These ships plan their speed so you arrive at the next port precisely when scheduled – in most cases the distance between these ports could have been covered much quicker than we actually did.  

Monday 6/15: Docked at Skagway
My excursion, a bicycle tour down from White Pass, didn’t have that many participants – but there were a few from the other ships in port with us (Rhapsody, a Princess, and Ryndam).  So we clambered into the van, which is pulling a trailer with the bicycles on it – and we drive off to get the others from their ships.  The guides are two cute young ladies, about college-age, and our driver also is very personable.  Their enthusiasm was contagious, although I am most resistant to that sort of thing early in the morning.  We cruised through town, them talking and answering questions about their summer life there with the bicycle tour company. We drive to the top of White Pass – about 15 or 20 miles altogether – and at the top they unload the bicycles and we pick one that suits us.  Everyone gets a helmet – and they have gloves too if we want to use them.  I do.  It seems a bit chilly.

We get the safety briefing and learn what the hand signals they will use mean.  One girl leads us, the other follows behind to help keep the stragglers together and we head down the mountain with the Sockeye Cycle Company!  After riding the brakes for several miles, I wonder, how long do these bicycle brake pads last on the very steep and fifteen mile long White Pass?  How many Sockeye Bicycle Tour riders are killed each year when these brake pads fail?  I’m just saying… She says they are replaced every couple of weeks.  I am not convinced. But, we do make it to the first rest break with no lives lost; the breaks are planned at some very nice look-out points which we share with many others who are in buses and cars – not as intrepid as us bike riders for sure.  I definitely feel superior today.  My south-end, however, is starting to get a bit numb, but the ride and the scenery are both exhilarating. 
We ride bikes down a mountain.
We arrive at the USA border station.  We have been riding back and forth across the US/Canadian border on this rather snaky highway – but there is only one station.  They are used to the bike (and probably other) tours, so the lead girl talks with them a moment or two and then we are waved through without checks.  We stop beyond the gate for water and restroom, which I definitely need by now; then, on down the mountain.  I wish we could go just a little faster – the girls keep our speeds low because some of the riders are very shaky and wobbly.  I don’t want to race down the mountain, but just a little faster would be fun.  As we get lower, there are a couple of short up-hills and I almost die.  How can I get that out of breath that quickly?  Anyway, the uphills are mercifully short.
I am starting to flag as we ride into Skagway – not tire so much maybe but I am getting a little saddle sore.  I sit sideways or a little off-center for a distance to make it “wear” on something else for a change.  Finally, we wind through Skagway and our tour is over.  I discover I have greased my pants leg on the chain – so I walk next door to a clothing shop and buy a pair of good work pants.  I will see if the ship’s laundry can get out the grease on my jeans when I get back (although I never did).  I just wrapped them in a plastic sack, and washed them myself when I got back home.  Unfortunately, I also bought two t-shirts that I couldn’t resist.  Where am I going to pack all this stuff for the ride home?  First a rain jacket, now three more pieces of clothing.

Now I walk back to the ship, taking some photos along the way.  The ship’s lifeboat crews are practicing in the water beside the ship – and it is getting a little misty or rainy.  I have lunch – and then try to walk back into Skagway to explore a little.  On the dock, I change my mind as it seems like it is going to rain a bit more.  I guess that leaves me something to do next time I go to Skagway.  So, instead I watch from the top as the helicopters and airplanes fly around, and eventually, just before we sailed, an Alaskan ferry (Columbia) arrives and docks near us.  Rhapsody leaves first (again). And then we sail too. 

Monday 6/15: Overnight cruise to Icy Strait Point then...

Tuesday 6/16: Anchored off Icy Strait Point and Hoonah
Icy Strait Point is on Chichigof Island and is the home of some of Alaska’s Tlingit people.  I thought these were an Athabaskan people – but have found out they are not.  Don’t know if someone taught that wrong, or if I just was not remembering the teaching correctly.  Anyway, after breakfast, I waited in the theater for my group to get aboard the tender for the trip ashore.  No pier here at Hoonah.  They only allow one cruise ship there at a time, so their facilities and tours are not overwhelmed.

Tender
After tendering ashore, I inquire about my bear-watching tour then have a seat to wait for the appointed time.  At about 0800, my tour escort Paula leads us to our school bus and we head out to the back-country behind the town to a place where soon, I'm told, bears will be hanging out, catching and eating all the salmon they can see.  Not today though, unfortunately.  I wonder if these people knew the bears were not out yet, but take our money anyway?  The thought, at least, crossed my mind.  I don’t know if any other tours today saw bears.  Along with each bear watching group goes a man with a big-bore rifle; he stays out of sight so as not to upset the tourists… but we know he’s right there somewhere, just in case.

The land was beautiful – and while we waited for bears to come we talked quietly.  Paula tells us why she enjoys life there so much.  Finally, we ride back to Hoonah and I tender back out to the ship for lunch.  I come back ashore for a cooking class after lunch.  This was about the only excursion that did not meet my expectations – although if I had read a little closer (or understood better) I probably would have realized it would not be my ideal. 

First, the leader showed how to filet a salmon, and later, a halibut.  Not something I will ever do, unfortunately, since I buy my fish already filleted.  Then, we were to grill our fish and have lunch.  Most of what they were eating, I wouldn't, ever.  I don’t care for salmon – I was hoping for the halibut and/or crab, etc.  But not much of the show was devoted to those.  The leader (a local fishwife) was very good, interesting and friendly; it just wasn't “my” topic.  So I left before it was over – and didn't eat either; I did try to be respectful while leaving, just so you know; I didn't feel like the problem was theirs.  Next time, I am doing the ZIPLINE.  Hoo-ah! 

Tuesday 6/16: Overnight cruise to Ketchikan
This was the evening we had our celebration.  We all met in formal attire for dinner in the dining room (well, as close to "formal" as I ever get), and after dinner we posed for a group photo on the ship’s main staircase (think Titanic’s Grand Staircase).  We were at that time sailing along the Chatham Strait past Admiralty and Baranof Islands – with gorgeous snow-capped and rugged mountains on both sides.  After dinner and the festivities, I spent a lot of time top-side trying to get some decent photographs.

Ketchikan, AK
Wednesday 6/17: Docked at Ketchikan
I had no excursions planned for Ketchikan – I did get off the boat and walk around town with Dave and Jim for a short time.  After lunch, back on board, I hung around and watched the activities on the water around the area – fishing boats and others, and lots of float-planes flying on and off the water, until it was time to sail again.

Wednesday 6/17: Overnight cruise traversing Hecate Strait then...

Thursday 6/18: Hecate Strait and Inside Passage
This was the “at-sea” day.  In the early morning, I was still in bed in the soft light and I saw another ship approaching and passing us – it was a classic-looking cruise ship of Holland America – I cannot remember now exactly which one.  It was headed north as we were cruising south.  Later in the afternoon, we were passed by (among others) an ocean-going tug.  I snapped a few shots of that as it approached and charged on past. The Alaska State ferry Columbia also cruised near us for quite some time, both of us heading south.

In early evening, we entered the Inside Passage.  This was a disappointment – most of that very beautiful stretch of water and its scenery slipped past in the dark.  On this route, there is no way to see everything on one trip – there isn’t a “throwaway” section of it anywhere -- and the ship does not stop at night.  It’s all beautiful, but you miss the night-time portions.  I stayed up on the top of the ship as long as I could see anything at all.

The Inside Passage
Thursday 6/18:    Overnight through the Inside Passage

Friday 6/19: Early morning to Vancouver and flight home via Seattle
Getting off is always an ordeal – but tolerable.  Once you realize what is involved, what the routine is, you simply plan to be patient, knowing that no matter what happens you will be getting off the ship within a certain amount of time. I packed my bags the night before, tagged them and put them in the hallway for the crew as requested.  In the morning, I had a quick breakfast and looked around at Vancouver and the harbor for a time until it was my appointed time to queue up for the disembarkation process.  We got a bus ride to the airport – and cleared U.S. customs there instead of in Seattle.  That made things a bit smoother. From Vancouver to Seattle was a short hop in a (Horizon Air) Q400 – and then Alaska Airlines again non-stop to Phoenix.  I upgraded to first class – only the second time in my life I’ve ever done that.  It’s usually not worth the extra money, but Alaska upgraded me for $50.  I figured what the heck.

Shipboard Experiences
I didn’t sleep-in much along the way – there was too much to do, even if that just meant relaxing.  Later in the week, I didn’t get up quite as early as I hadn’t planned any shore excursions in Ketchikan (on Wednesday), and on Thursday 6/18 we were not docked, but running between Ketchikan and Vancouver in the Hecate Straits, Queen Charlotte Strait and Sound and the Inside Passage.  Most mornings, I got up, showered and went to breakfast, leaving a “make-up room” tag on the door so Ms. Marcia could get mine done early. 

Although I shared breakfast with my cruising companions once or twice, most days our differing schedules precluded that.  I ate breakfast once in the Cascades dining room, but having to share my breakfast table with strangers is not ever my first choice, so most days I ate at the Windjammer buffet.  For the first several days, I tended to over-eat as I think most do on cruise ships, where the food and your consumption of it is unlimited.  But by the last couple of days I started self-controlling a bit better and cut back – and did some walking around the top deck – I actually lost 3 pounds in the last two days aboard ship.  I even surprised me and felt great doing it. Eat less, walk more, lose weight and feel better!

On Sunday, Monday and Tuesday, I had early morning shore excursions – so I had to eat in a hurry and get out there.  Wednesday and Thursday, as I said, I stayed aboard the ship a bit later and so was able to relax a little more.  I usually returned to the ship for lunch – and if I had no afternoon excursion I hung about the top deck taking pictures of wherever we were at the time – Juneau, Skagway, Icy Strait Point and Ketchikan. 

Dinner was always with the Melian family at our table (#509) in the Cascades dining room where Eloisa and Gabriela catered to our every whim.  Their service was pretty wonderful, all things considered.  In the evenings, I roamed about the ship, checked out the shops and the photo galleries, visited with Dave and generally relaxed and enjoyed myself.  I tried to read that book I found in the ship’s library but never got too far into it. I finally gave up and just checked it out of the local library when I returned home.

The first few days – the midnight sun kept things illuminated all night long.  It never got darker than twilight.  I wanted to, but did not see the Northern Lights.  I have to say that despite the novelty, it was hard to sleep with daylight twenty-four hours a day.  As we got further south, that particular treat ended and it was dark from about 10 pm or so on (and I slept better too).

Things on the ship I really liked:  
Walking around on the top deck, looking at the beautiful Alaskan topography and seascapes; the towel critters my cabin attendant Marcia made each evening when she’d turn down the bed; the cabin attendants all along my hallway on Deck 3 saying hello whenever they’d see you – and it never seemed false or forced; the steam room; the hot tubs; the presentation by the retired RCMP Mounty, Mr. Michael Glas (he spoke on Sitting Bull and his tenure in Canada after the Little Bighorn, so that was right up my alley).

Cabin Critter
Cabin
My cabin on Deck 3, port side, number 3134, was beautiful – nicer than most motel rooms I’ve stayed in.  Marcia, the attendant (or steward) made sure things were always ship-shape. The water pressure wasn’t strong, but I suspect that is by design to conserve water since it is a precious commodity aboard a ship at sea.  I had a beautiful round port-hole-like picture window – and I was just above water level so I could look out and see what was happening with the sea at any time.  I don’t like inside cabins nearly as much.  You cannot be outside all the time…  The bed was snug, soft and comfy – the linens were very, very nice…

Food
The food was remarkable considering the ships culinary staff feeds 2500 people three times each day… plus.  It isn’t 5-star, but I sure never went hungry.  They even served lobster one evening.  One disappointment was the one steak I had – smothered in a too-strong Béarnaise sauce and a bit too tough.  I didn’t order one again, although Jim had a well-done sirloin almost every single meal and was very happy to do so.  Breakfast in the buffet was usually scrambled eggs, of course, hash browns a la Burger King, some fruit… one morning I tried the biscuits and gravy – not more than once though.  It just wasn’t that good.  I usually had a healthy pile of very sinful bacon though. 

Breakfast was one meal where it was easy to cut back on quantities – the buffet fare was almost uniformly good but I feel better with a lighter breakfast so I learned to take it easy and stopped sooner (than I did at other meals perhaps).  I tried different things for lunch – probably the best was some mushroom or chicken soup and a small section of “wrap” one afternoon.  They typically had some type of carved meat – ham one day, pork one day, once lamb.  I never did eat at a restaurant off the ship – which was one way to save money since I had already paid for the privilege of eating onboard.  I ate a meal from room service once and I ate at the Seaview Café, I think twice – it was the burger, dog and clam chowder venue onboard the Radiance, but it was later removed and replaced during the Radiance’s refurbishing in 2011.  I don't know what Radiance has now instead.

Amenities/Activities

Steam Room – I discovered the steam room about four or five days into the cruise.  Dave took me there and we roasted and simmered for a time.  I thought it might help open up my head a little, as I had been afflicted by some inner ear congestion for several weeks.  I really liked the steam room – and we almost always had it to ourselves.  I think no one else knows it is there.

The Pool Deck
Hot tub – harder to get to yourself; there were two on the pool deck and one in the Solarium. I soaked in these once or twice I think.  I never got into the pool, although the water appeared to be nicely heated and steamy.  This is important when you are steaming in the vicinity of glaciers.

Shows – I guess I will never be a show-kind-of-guy.  It’s like live Lawrence Welk -- just not for me.  I went to one show that featured a comedian – and I didn’t even like his show.  Why do something on vacation that you don’t enjoy?  Dave tried to get me back in there several times – but I was a fuddy-duddy and flat refused.  I know what I like – and what I don’t.

Presentations – the Mounty’s presentation was at least interesting and even if he was a bit unpolished as a speaker, I really enjoyed his talk.  I offered to write some additional information about Sitting Bull for him and send it to him.  He doesn’t have the typical cop-bravado; perhaps that is because he is a polite Canadian. 

Casino – I wasted zero-time and zero-dollars in the ship’s casino.  The coupon booklet that came with my Crown and Anchor membership had a free spin of a $3 Slot – and I stopped by just exactly long enough to throw that into the machine and lose it.  Then I split.  That's not how I feel about Royal Caribbean's casinos -- it's how I feel about casinos, period.

Theater – I went to the movie theater once – to see "Get Smart" at about 10 pm one evening.  The only others in attendance were teenagers.  And they were noisy little buggers.  So I did not stay.  I also closed the door rather firmly as I left to show evidence of my displeasure – but I doubt they even noticed.   I did want to see one film they were showing on Alaska – but I never could get the timing right – it always seemed to be showing when I was doing something else more important – like visiting, or eating.

Miniature Golf – I played the little 9-hole course once.  It was pretty basic although that doesn’t mean easy – it just wasn't too imaginative in design.  Most of the difficulty was in uneven surfaces.   

Ports of Call

Seward was simply the embarkation point.  On my tight schedule, there was no opportunity to check out the town or its highlights.  It sits at the base of a coastal hill – on one side of the end of Resurrection Bay.  It’s a scenic area – but not as pretty as some of the other stops we made later.

Hubbard Glacier – Gorgeous, remote and primitive.  You’re definitely out there when you visit this place.

Juneau – totally isolated from road transportation.  The only way in is by boat or air. Juneau is in a very scenic location – perhaps the prettiest of all the settled places we stopped.

Skagway – I liked the rustic nature of Skagway and in hind-sight would have liked to have spent more time there and less at Hoonah.  I didn’t have enough time to walk around and see the town and more than any other port, I would have liked to there.  I had a walk around town pre-planned, with a visit to the cemetery, but I got rained out.

Icy Strait Point and Hoonah / Tendering -- An ok day all things considered, it would have been much better if I had actually seen bears on my bear watching expedition.  I’ll bet folks who did the zip-line had more fun than me…  Tendering ashore means getting off the ship onto a smaller boat – and that takes you to the shore-side dock.  This was the only port where we used the tenders – and the crew actually practiced their maneuvering the day before while the ship was docked at Skagway.

Ketchikan – a beautiful little fishing town where I’d probably like to live.  I wonder if they need a bakery?

Excursions
Whale Watching – Good. Whales catching fish! (no Orcas, though).
Mt Roberts Tramway – Good, very scenic.
Bike Ride – Great fun!  Sore butt.
Bear Search – Nice morning – great guide.  No bears showed up.  They are never guaranteed – but I wonder what the percentage is?
Culinary Extravaganza – would have been great if I had been interested in the program or enthusiastic about salmon. My mistake, not theirs.

The Ship
GTV Radiance of the Seas was magnificent.  You might ask, what is “GTV?”  I believe it stands for Gas Turbine Vessel.  Radiance and her sisters are powered by twin GE turbine engines of the same basic type used to loft DC-10 jumbo jets (adapted of course for marine propulsion usage).  Using these engines to power a ship was first tried by the Navy – to propel ships that needed to accelerate and stop quickly  – destroyers or frigates, for example.  So the Radiance of the Seas is like a 90,000 ton sports car.  It’s fast, it’s maneuverable. Like most modern cruise ships, the screws are mounted in “pods” that swivel to direct their thrust and there are thrusters on the bow-sides as well.  Radiance of the Seas is driven through the seas by two eighteen-foot propellers; the ship is “stabilized,” which means that it has devices that help it ride smoothly in rough seas.  I’m not sure how well that system works – it never really got rough during the seven days of my cruise. But I rarely felt the ship roll and never felt any yawing whatsoever, so perhaps it works really well.

·        Parking…  Unlike some ships, Radiance probably never needs assistance from tugs or the like to get in and out of tight places.  It docks and undocks with unbelievable precision – without a bump or a grind along the way.  The entire ship can move broadside at one or two inches per hour.  It’s awesome and fascinating to watch.

·        Dimensions (how big is it?) Radiance of the Seas is 962 feet long, displaces 90,090 tons (almost 1½ times more than Titanic!), is 106 feet across and towers 173 feet above the waterline on a calm day.  That's a big boat! She can cruise at 28 mph, but doesn’t usually go quite that fast – I rarely saw our speed much above 21 or 22 knots (25 mph).  Many times we were moseying along at 13 or 15 knots (17 mph).  The ship can accommodate about 2,500 souls.  The elevators however, can only accommodate about ¼ of that number… a particular sore point with me.  By the way, don’t you just love people who shove their way into a crowded elevator whether there is room or not, or push in before those getting off have a chance to do so? So many people have no manners whatsoever.

The weather (June 2009)
- No rain (well, not much anyway)
- Visibility excellent, not much fog or low clouds.
- Temps were comfortable – cold near the glacier, tolerable daytime, nights chilly. 
- Mid-June 2009 was a GREAT time for an Alaska cruise.

Lessons learned about cruising on this trip…
- Don’t take so many clothes
- Make your own flight reservations, but use the cruiseline's transfers
- Control the intake of food
- Exercise every day

Highlights

(other than simply the joy of being on an Alaska cruise...)
- Dining Room Staff (Eloisa and Gabriela)
- Cabin Attendant (Marcia)
- Skagway Bike Ride
- Whales
- Hubbard Glacier (was awesome)
- Pilot boat rendezvous (we picked up a pilot for the Inside Passage).

Disappointments - (keep in mind, "disappointment" is a relative term...)

- No bears came calling
- Cooking demo/excursion (the specific focus was just not my thing).

How I got home...
Wrapping it up...
My time aboard the Radiance of the Seas was a delight -- the adventure of it all, being with my friends, the scenery...  I hope to experience Alaska again, if I am once again lucky.  Some folks find every little thing to complain about; I have sailed with Royal Caribbean four times and each was an enjoyable experience, given the limitations of cruising with a multitude of people accompanying you.  All things considered, I'd definitely cruise again and it will most likely be on a Royal Caribbean vessel.  While I think RCCL has a lot of class and runs a quality operation, I do not have the same level of confidence in some of the other cruise lines.  

When I wrote this, it was two years since the cruise -- and I was jones'n for another one right then.  My friends were cruising the Caribbean.  So I relived my adventure by posting this... and I think I will start planning my next cruise right now.
Dave

In memory of my best friend, Dave Melian, who passed from this life on September 12, 2012. He lived his faith every day. I will never forget the many good times we had together and our nearly 50 years of friendship. He was simply the best.



6/01/2011

You Can't Get There from Here; the McComas Massacre

I like to look for places where history happened.  I’m not content to find the general vicinity of an event, I want to stand on the same spot and look for rocks or coins or belt buckles.  Which artifacts, of course, I would turn over forthwith to the proper authorities; yes, I would (although I do have a rusty old nail from an old stage coach station around here somewhere). I set off for New Mexico yesterday to find such a place – an obscure place, to be sure, but one which did have some significance, especially for the three people involved and the perpetrators of the crime. 

Unfortunately, dating even from the time of the McComas family’s murders, this is ranch land that is jealously guarded against outside interlopers like me.  Oh, I tried, from this way then that; but you cannot get there from here, or from anywhere else, not legally anyway.  The spot in question was marked by a walnut tree and it is on a dusty old road over in Grant County, New Mexico. 

The western end of Thompson Canyon

In frontier times, this road was part of the Lordsburg to Silver City stage road – today, it is difficult to tell what parts of the roads in the immediate vicinity were used by the stage road.  I know, however, about where the murders occurred and that spot is on Thompson Canyon Road just beyond where it exits the western end of its namesake, about 17 miles north of Lordsburg, NM.

Back in 1883, Hamilton Calhoun McComas  (or H.C., as he was known) was pursuing his American dream of making himself and his heirs successful by mining ventures in southwestern New Mexico.  It was wild country and still being contested by some extremely wily, contumacious former inhabitants. 

H.C., part of a large family, had moved west from Virginia, Illinois, Kansas and Missouri, in that order. He was an attorney by profession and I’ve read that he was a good one.  He may have worked with Abraham Lincoln at one time in his life – and he had served as a judge back in Illinois. Thereafter, everywhere he went, people called him “Judge” McComas. 

By late 1882, H.C., now 52,  had bought a red-brick house in Silver City at 500 North Hudson Street (where the post office is now), moved his second wife and some of his children there and was pursuing multiple endeavors relating to the practice of law and mining – even mixing the two up, which to me seems a natural thing to do.  His wife, Juniata, had presented him with two daughters and a little boy, Charley, who was then about six years of age – plus H.C. had some (older) sons through a first, failed marriage.

Silver City is situated at a place that was considered home by a good number of the "Chiricahua" Apaches.  In fact, the people we now collectively call "Chiricahuas" consisted of several groups of closely-related Indians and the ones who lived in the Silver City area were mostly the Chihenne, or "Red Paint People;" the Mimbres and the Warm Springs bands.

By the late 1870’s, these peoples had mostly been driven out of the area because of their fierce resistance to an almost complete white take-over of their lands, and the equally aggressive nature of the newcomers who were flooding the territory in overwhelming numbers.  Rather than meekly accept this eventuality, some of the Apaches continued to fight long after most others had given up and moved to reservation life. 

These outsiders' (or "renegades'") means of survival was increasingly centered on raiding against the ones who were forcing them out.  The Apaches were always a raiding people, but as their way of life became more and more threatened and uncertain, they couldn’t live any other way.  As a result of this pressure, they lost their lands, their way of life, almost their entire culture – it was lost since they had no peaceful time to teach their children and in many cases they had no children left to teach.

In later years, the raiding included an increased resort to violence and murder – which in earlier years had not been as much a part of that mode of subsistence (war was war, and raiding was raiding, and killing was a part of war, not of raiding). 

But as more and more Americans infiltrated the southwestern lands, the more the vengeful Apaches resorted to raiding and violence - and that was the one thing that was certain to turn virtually all Americans violently against them.  In the view of most southwestern whites the Apaches weren’t fighting for the land, they were simply vicious thieves and murderers; so there wasn't any understanding or empathy for them.  These were unhappy years, for both sides.

By the early 80’s, the Apaches had been driven either onto reservations, or in the case of the most resistant ones, south of the border into the mountains of the Sierra Madre.  Their wisest, most influential leaders were dead (Cheis and Mangas Coloradas) – only some much older chiefs and some younger, less diplomatically-savvy hotheads were left to lead (along with the firebrands Victorio, Nana, Geronimo and Juh).  The other Indian wars were mostly over -- so the Army concentrated all its attentions and resources on the few Apaches left -- even so, it took until September 1886 to subdue them.

The Apaches that were still off-reservation were being pressured by American troops on this side of the border and Mexican troops on the other side -- until finally each side was given the authority to continue a “hot pursuit” across the borders.  After that, the Apaches got no rest at all.  It wasn’t just the troops – both Mexican citizens and American citizens alike were very apt to organize pursuit of the Apaches both with and independently of the governments’ troops. In order to continue to resist and fight, the Indians had to have several things – namely horses, weapons, and ammunition. In the last years and months these were all in short supply as were food and subsistence supplies – blankets, cookware, etc.  The Apaches had no place left to rest, a demoralizing fact which soon became clear to them.

In early 1883, these Indians were in a desperate condition; Victorio had been killed – and while some of them (led by Geronimo) raided in Mexico, a few others under Chato and Bonito rode north into Arizona and New Mexico to raid for weapons, horses and ammunition.  Chato’s raiders, who are the subject of the rest of this story, decided before they rode north that they would kill everyone they encountered.  They moved fast and hard – as the Apaches were uniquely skilled at doing; no other people have ever been as suited (or adapted) to live on this desert land and survive – not without electricity anyway.

As Chato and Bonito led their few raiders north, they left a trail of death and destruction behind them.  Word got around about the raid and the violence, and the population was alarmed, if not ready.  These Indians were known to be headed east from Arizona into southwestern New Mexico and the “boot heel,” so it is somewhat surprising that any travelers were out on the roads given the rather likely threat of tortured, violent death – still, the Silver City stage ran as usual – and life went on for most – save for a few drovers or miners caught far from the relative safety of town (it was not uncommon that Apaches would come right into a town and kill or terrorize some of its inhabitants).  The Army had a couple of regiments out searching for the Indians and some citizen volunteers were also patrolling. None of them succeeded in finding Chato's raiding party.

Sometime immediately before March 27, 1883, in the middle of Chato’s raid, H.C. got word from an older son, David, then working in a McComas’ enterprise in Pyramid City, that his legal advice was needed with some kind of business circumstance and would he come at once. 

Apparently, H.C. thought the Apaches were nothing that couldn’t be handled with a Winchester rifle and a side arm – and he rented a buckboard, bundled little Charley into the back, and set off toward Lordsburg (about 55 or 60 wagon miles away) with his wife, Juniata (or “Jenny”) beside him. Thankfully (for them), the two girls were left behind in the care of a close friend with instructions to practice for an upcoming piano recital. Perhaps, H.C. discounted the threat -- as a relative newcomer to the southwest he may not have had a clear-enough idea of the critical threat the Apaches could pose -- the depredations and dangers of the Cochise War (1860's and early 1870's) were not a first-person memory for him.

The first day, H.C. trotted the horses and the buckboard west and then south from Silver City, along and across Mangas Creek and toward the Burro Mountains.  Declining an invitation to stop and stay with his friend the sheriff in Paschal (a small mining community), he drove the team on to the Mountain Home Inn, a lonely lodging in a dell immediately below Burro Peak.  He was perhaps about halfway with the drive to Lordsburg at that point – and after a very pleasant and companionable evening with another guest and the proprietors, the McComas family set out at 9:00 am  on March 28th for the remaining thirty miles or so to Lordsburg.

Unknown to them, or any other whites who were still alive, Chato’s raiders were headed toward the same area – the Burro Mountains – and planned to use “hidden” trails in that area to move safely southward toward Mexico with the spoils of their raiding.

H.C. negotiated the narrowest part of Thompson Canyon and after exiting its western end, was able to relax a little – thinking perhaps that if the Indians were in the area, the confines of the canyon were the best place for an ambush; he was beyond that now.  From where he was, the road to Lordsburg was a simple, fairly straight shot right down the valley. If the town had any two-story buildings, and it was a clear day, he probably could have seen them.

They had just passed the Lordsburg to Silver City stage, headed the other way at a good clip, perhaps giving him even more reason to think things were relatively safe. He stopped with his family a few minutes after 12:00 for a picnic lunch.  They spread a blanket under a very old and very large walnut tree and sat down to eat.  At that moment the Indians appeared. By sheer coincidence and merciless fate, H.C., Juniata and little Charley were at precisely the wrong place at precisely the right time; they were simply in the way.

H.C. fought desperately, perhaps trying to give his family a few moments to escape.  But he had no chance – and he was quickly killed by several bullets.  Juniata tried to escape with Charley in the buckboard, but was overtaken and bludgeoned to death in a few short seconds.  Two Apaches argued over who would take Charley – but Bonito, commanding the respect due a leader, solved the argument by taking him himself. 

Charley McComas was never seen by whites again – he probably lived a month or two in the Apaches' camps – but died or was killed – and the surviving Apaches wouldn’t talk much about it later – perhaps fearing reprisals. In the mid-twentieth century, a few did tell what they thought had happened to him, but many were not sure and said so, and in any event the details of their stories varied.  It is even possible, some said, that he lived among the Apaches into adulthood, although most Apaches who did talk about it, and later historians as well, refuted that presumption and for the most part think Charley was dead before summer was out that year.

The Apaches killed thousands of people during the almost 300 years that European settlers were invading and taking their lands. But the murders of Judge and Juniata McComas and the kidnapping of their son, more than any others, galvanized public opinion in the United States against the Apaches and as a result, energized attempts to force them into captivity – or kill them.  Many in those days wanted them all dead. 

It was hard to justify – and remains so today – the killing of innocent women and children, or other civilians, during “nothing” more than a raid to steal guns, horses and ammunition. The connection to survival for these Indians was at best indirect and in the minds of most western citizens, nonexistent. To be fair, the Apaches' desperate circumstances in 1883 were (although not entirely) directly related to the manner in which Mexicans and Americans had treated them  -- they had often been attacked and murdered by the newcomers in much the same way, often cruelly and treacherously. 

The Apaches were already a hard, vengeful people -- why would anyone think they would react to extremely violent ill-treatment in any other way?  But I have seen the words of no less a vengeful personage than Geronimo himself, that what he regretted most about his violent past was the killing of innocent children; with those words he admitted that he believed there were limits to the morality of killing -- that it was wrong to kill non-combatants (at least under some circumstances). 

Within three and a half years, the last of the “renegades” were hunted down, starved out and forced to give up – by then, even in their own fiercely resistant minds it seemed the only way for them to survive at all.  They were broken – and by the time they recovered any of their indomitable Apache spirit, it was no longer possible for them to resist.  They were, by then, thousands of miles away from home, imprisoned in Florida, Alabama and Oklahoma, demoralized and completely dependent on the government.

The McComases?  Their bodies were recovered, taken first to Silver City and then to Fort Scott, Kansas for burial.  The girls were charged to H.C.’s father-in-law and their interests guarded by Juniata’s brother – as well as H.C.’s business partner.  H.C.’s oldest son, David, the one in New Mexico, was dead within a couple of years himself – he apparently never recovered from the shock of his father’s death.  It is possible that he may have been a suicide – no cause of death was published. The other older son, William, became a personable cad for the most part, and drifted through life and jobs. He was implicated in a woman's murder later in life and was quite a scandalous character, capitalizing on his family's "story" to garner sympathy whenever he could. The daughters  (Ada and Mary) survived to adulthood and old age, but were forever scarred by the violent loss of their parents and brother.

While I have much empathy for the Apaches and for other Indian peoples, these were senseless killings.  Despite their desperate plight at the time, this was criminal activity more than it was legitimate war-faring (which they had some moral right to engage in) and within a year of committing these murders, Chato was serving in Crook’s Army as an Apache Scout.  He lived well into the 1930’s.  H.C., Jenny and Charley McComas and their heirs never got justice. Chato and the others with him should rightfully have been hanged.

The McComas murders were a memorable event in the history of the Apache Wars – and I wanted to stand on the spot where they happened.  As late as 1994, that walnut tree they picnicked under, while dead, still stood. Yesterday, hoping the skeleton of that tree was still there, I tried to approach the site from Lordsburg on County Road B009 – I drove for nearly 15 miles (on a pretty good road) but right after I crossed the Hidalgo/Grant County line, the road got 4wd rough and I came to a padlocked gate.  I was at that point within two or three miles of the murder scene.  So I drove back south to Highway 90 and turned north to the Mill Canyon Road; I took that 5 or 6 miles west to… another locked gate... a few feet from Thompson Canyon Road and not 1½ miles from where that walnut tree stood.  Sigh. 

Just LOOK at this filthy car!
I thought about slipping under the fence and walking the rest of the way (I was that close) – but there were No Trespassing signs posted and I am, after all, a person who believes that laws are made to be obeyed and that property rights are to be respected.  That’s just the way it is.  If I ever get the chance, I may contact that rancher and see if perhaps he will take 15 minutes out of his day and accompany me there; who knows, he might if he possesses a generous spirit. Anyway, that was more dust than my new car had ever seen before and I was some disappointed by not being able to get to the exact place where the McComases were killed.

We cannot save every single historical site – and most people would probably consider this event to have been a minor one.  It was, in a sense, it’s just that what happened to these three ordinary Americans along that lonely road had such far-reaching effects.  While it pains my egalitarian soul to say so, it had far-reaching results because in their own place and time the McComases were prominent and well-known – I guess what you might call American upper-class; suffice it to say they were decent people and pillars of their community. Their deaths brought a lot of outrage and national attention to that little corner of the world.

On Highway 90, at the intersection of Gold Gulch Road, the New Mexicans have erected an historical marker commemorating the murders of H.C. McComas and his wife and the taking of their boy.  The marker is a little over 22 miles south of Silver City and about 8 air miles from the site of the murders on Thompson Canyon Road.  

Many people knowledgeable of the history of the Southwest instantly recognize the name, if not the details, of the McComas incident. Other books I have read mentioned the McComas killings in passing, as part of a larger story – simply as a recounting of fact, or a part of the death toll.  No one that I knew of had written about these murders with any depth, or presented H.C. and Juniata McComas as real people whose lives were cut short – until lately. 

My interest in visiting the McComas site and the walnut tree was sparked by a book, written by Dr. Marc Simmons. Most of the detail that I’ve learned (and included herein) as regards the McComas family comes from it  – if you are interested in the rest of the fascinating story, read this remarkable book...

Simmons, Marc.  Massacre on the Lordsburg Road; A Tragedy of the Apache Wars. College Station: Texas A&M University Press. 1997

Other books that contributed immeasurably to my ability to write this article were:

Ball, Eve. Indeh; An Apache Oddysey. Provo: Brigham Young University Press. 1980.

Ball, Eve. In the Days of Victorio. Tucson: Univ. of Arizona Press. 1970.

Betzinez, Jason.  I Fought With Geronimo.   New York: Bonanza Books. 1959

Thrapp, Dan. The Conquest of Apacheria. Norman and London: University of Oklahoma Press. 1967.